124. Riga

This was my first visit to Riga since January 2005. This time (July 2026), I flew from Leeds-Bradford with Ryanair. The scheduled flight time is something like 2hrs40 but we landed 20 minutes early in both directions. The main difference being that I was off the plane, through immigration and baggage reclaim in less than 20 minutes at Riga. At Leeds, we had to wait on the plane for 20 minutes for a despatcher to attend and supervise the disembarking. Then clearing immigration took 40 minutes – long queue, only 2 of the 8 desks in use, no E-Gates. After a while, 2 other desks opened. Welcome to 21st century England…

The year 1201 is recorded as the year of the founding of Riga, and the German Bishop Albert mentioned as its founder. In the 13th century, the Town Council of Riga entered into agreements on international trade and exchange of goods with Eastern principalities and later with Hanseatic cities, thus becoming a significant interstate trade port and a member of the Hanseatic League. In the 14th century, the city of Riga was under the rule of the Livonian Order and under the influence of the Hanseatic League, a confederation of merchant guilds and market towns, dominating Baltic maritime commerce. In 1558, the 25-year Livonian War between the Russian Tsardom and the Livonian Confederation began, later joined by the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, as well as the Kingdom of Denmark and Sweden. As a result of the Livonian War, Riga and its port came under Polish rule. In 1600, the Polish-Swedish war for influence in the Baltic Sea region began. Frequent Swedish attacks blocked the port and restricted trade. However, in 1621, in the decisive battle for Riga, the Swedes broke the resistance of the besieged citizens. Polish-Lithuanian troops were not able to break through the siege of Riga, and the Riga City Council opened the city gates to the troops of Swedish King Gustav II Adolf. In 1700, Russian Tsar Peter I declared war on Sweden. After ten years of devastating warfare, on July 4, 1710, the city surrendered. On November 18, 1918, the Republic of Latvia was proclaimed, which lasted until June 1940, when the Soviet army invaded and Latvia became part of the USSR. The Germans invaded Latvia in June 1941 and were driven out by the Soviet army in 1944-45. From 1945, Latvia once again became a Soviet republic.

Latvia adopted a Declaration of Independence (on 4 May 1990) and finally gained independence from the Soviets in September 1991. Latvia joined the EU in 2004 and adopted the euro in 2014…

The historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A useful guide to the city is: https://www.liveriga.com/en/

Doma Laukum (Dome Square):

Riga Cathedral is in the city centre – it was built in the early 13th century in the Romanesque style. The foundations were laid in 1211 and the cathedral was consecrated by Bishop Albert – the German bishop credited with bringing Christianity to Latvia…

Gothic and Baroque elements were later added to the architectural scheme and the interiors were modified in the 17th century to conform to Lutheran traditions. See: https://doms.lv/en

In 2001 instability problems were uncovered leading to various sections being closed off. Funding was secured in 2006 and remedial work began…

Riga Cathedral organ is considered to be one of the world’s most valuable historic organs. It was built in 1883- 1884 by a famous German organ building company E. F. Walcker & Co.

This intriguing building is the Riga Bourse Art Museum – see: https://lnmm.gov.lv/en/art-museum-riga-bourse

Other Churches:

Regrettably, I missed The Holy Trinity church, consecrated in 1895 and is one of the most magnificent and beautiful Orthodox churches in Riga. Riga is also home to the Grebenshchikov Old Believers’ Church – which I also missed and, according to the Live Riga website it can actually be visited – unusual for an Old Believers’ Church…

If you like churches then this web link will prove useful: https://www.liveriga.com/en/visit/what-to-see/sightseeing/churches

The Nativity of Christ Cathedral is the largest Orthodox church in Riga. During the Soviet era it was used as a planetarium. After independence it was restored and reopened in 2000 as a cathedral…

The cathedral is built in a neo-Byzantine style and was consecrated in 1884…

The neo-gothic church of St Gertrude was built between 1903-06…

St Peter’s Church dates from 1209 and acquired its current shape during remodelling in the 15th century and was rebuilt after having been destroyed during WWII…

The first mention of St. John’s Church was in 1297. After several reconstructions, around 1500 the church acquired its present appearance – a high Gothic stepped gable, a span roof and a small tower.

Until 1523, St. John’s Church belonged to the Dominican Order. The Latvian congregation acquired it in 1582. However, it turned out to be too small for the Latvian Lutheran congregation in Riga, as a result in 1587–1588 the church was enlarged with a new altar extension. The present church tower was built in 1849…

St James’s Catholic Cathedral was first mentioned in written sources in 1226. The church has housed congregations of various denominations. From its beginnings up to the Reformation period, it belonged to the Catholics. After the Reformation, it became the first Latvian Lutheran church in Riga. In 1582, when Riga was conquered by Polish King Stephen Bathory, it was given back to the Catholic Church. In 1621, Riga was taken over by the Kingdom of Sweden – as a result, the church was returned to the Lutherans. Since 1923, St. James Church once again belongs to the Catholics…

Our Lady of Sorrows Church was built in 1785 and then rebuilt in 1859-60 before being tweaked again 1895.

The Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Church was built between1820-25 and is a rare example of wooden Orthodox church architecture in the city and remains an active and well-loved place of worship. The interior is typical of Orthodox churches – ornate and very colourful. It was very busy, so I didn’t take any photos of the interior…

The Swedish Gate and Old City Walls:

The Swedish Gate is the only surviving entrance of the eight gates in Riga’s city walls…

The Swedish Gate was constructed in 1698 to provide access to barracks outside the city wall. The gate was opened at sunrise and closed at sunset…

Remains of the city’s original medieval wall…

The Powder Tower was first recorded in 1330 as the Sand Tower, it guarded the defensive wall system that once encircled the Old Town. Over the centuries, it was repeatedly rebuilt, adapted for military needs, and ultimately renamed the Powder Tower when gunpowder was stored here in the 17th century. Today, this round brick tower is both a historic monument and home to the Latvian War Museum.

Buildings of Interest:

The Town Hall Square with a statue of Roland and the House of the Blackheads. The house was built in the 1330s as a meeting place for public organizations of the city of Riga. It was first recorded in documents in 1334. The construction of the house may have been related to the end of the conflict between the townspeople and the Teutonic Knights, which took on a military character in 1297 and ended three years later. In the 15th century, there were insufficient funds to maintain the building. So, it was decided to partially lease it and use the proceeds for renovations. From 1478, one of the floors of the house (“de olden swarten hovede hus”) was used to organize meetings of the brotherhood of so-called Blackheads. The Brotherhood of Blackheads was a paramilitary association of wealthy and unmarried merchants, who over time gained significant influence on city management. Their name probably came from Saint Maurice, the patron of the brotherhood, who was depicted in iconography as a dark-skinned figure.

Around 1620, the house was transformed in the style of the Dutch Renaissance. In 1713, it became the exclusive property of the Brotherhood of the Blackheads. During this period, another reconstruction was started, which may have been influenced by the damage suffered in 1710, when the city was bombarded by Russian troops. At the end of the 18th and in the 19th centuries, the interior of the building and its furnishings were transformed, but the basic structure was no longer modified. The house survived in this form until 1941, when it was destroyed due to Soviet shelling, and then in 1948 it was demolished by the occupation authorities. After the Latvian state regained independence, the reconstruction of the historic building was undertaken in 1996-1999… See: https://medievalheritage.eu/en/

Riga Castle is one of Latvia’s greatest medieval castles. Building started in 1330. Riga Castle has been the residence of the President of Latvia since 1922 when the institution of the President of Latvia was founded…

Riga Castle is also home to the Latvian National Museum of History. The Museum has been located here since 1920 and currently occupies the reconstructed wing of the oldest part of Riga Castle with the entrance from Daugavas gāte…

The Latvian National Museum of Art, built between 1903-05

Latvian National Museum of Art – see: https://lnmm.gov.lv/en/latvian-national-museum-of-art

The Art Academy of Latvia was founded in 1919, at the same time when the Republic of Latvia was formed, and has been the leading art university in Latvia for more than 100 years.

The Art Academy of Latvia – see: https://www.lma.lv/en

The Latvian National Theatre – commissioned by the city and designed by architect August Reinberg, the theatre building was constructed from 1899 to 1902 on a site next to Riga’s historic canal, where the city’s 17th-century citadel once stood…

The National Library of Latvia is adjacent to the railway museum on the opposite side of the River Daugava from the old city. It’s a bit weird looking but, compared to the abysmal British Library, it’s an absolute gem…

The Latvian Academy of Sciences was completed in 1961, is 108 metres high and was the tallest structure in Latvia for many years.

An observation deck is on the 17th floor, about 65 metres above the city. From here, you can see the curve of the Daugava, the Central Market, the towers of Old Town, and the National Library across the river. The deck is open daily, and can be reachedt by lift to the 15th floor, followed by a climb up two flights of stairs…

Alberta iela:

Built between 1901 and 1908, Alberta Street is regarded as Riga’s Art Nouveau gem and the best place to experience art nouveau architecture in Riga, with splendid early-20th-century façades lining the street from end to end…