I used to go to Stockholm fairly regularly, for work, between 1994 and 2007. Usually it was just to Stockholm but did also visit Gothenburg (Göteborg), Malmö and Östersund. I went to Östersund twice – each time for a wine fair set up by the Munskänkarna. It remains the furthest north I’ve been in Sweden. So this trip, in May 2022, was a chance to see more of the country and get to know Stockholm better.
This post features:
Stockholm, Uppsala, Sigtuna, Västerås, Ängelsberg, Linköping, Norrköping, Örebro, Nora and Gävle
Malmö – visited in November 2019
I’ve included a brief history of the country as it’s something I was only vaguely aware of.
The Viking Age (800–1050 AD) was characterised by expeditions that set off from Sweden to both plunder and trade along the Baltic coast and the rivers that stretched deep into present-day Russia. The Vikings travelled as far as the Black and Caspian Seas, where they developed trading links with the Byzantine Empire and the Arab kingdoms. Christianity first reached Sweden in the 9th century, but the country was not converted to Christianity until the 11th century.
The various provinces of Sweden were absorbed around 1000 AD into a single unit, but the crown only began to gain significant influence during the late 13th century. In 1280 King Magnus Ladulås issued a statute authorising the establishment of a nobility and the organisation of society on the feudal model.
The Kalmar Union combined Denmark, Finland, Norway and Sweden. It also included the Faroes, Greenland, Iceland and the Shetland Islands. The Union took place in Kalmar where Erik of Pomerania was crowned king in 1397. However, the union (1397–1523) was marred by internal conflicts that culminated in the ‘Stockholm Bloodbath’ in 1520, when 80 Swedish nobles were executed at the instigation of the Danish union king, Kristian II. The act provoked a rebellion, which in 1521 led to the deposition of Kristian II and the seizure of power by a Swedish nobleman, Gustav Vasa, who was elected king of Sweden in 1523.
The foundations of the Swedish state were laid during the reign of Gustav Vasa (1523–60). In 1527, at the Diet of Västerås, Sweden broke from Rome and Lutheranism was adopted. The church was nationalised, its estates confiscated by the crown, and the Protestant Reformation was introduced. Power was concentrated in the hands of the king and hereditary monarchy came into force in 1544.
Interestingly, Sweden broke from Rome 7 years before England (1534) and began dissolving their monasteries 9 years before England (1536).
After the dissolution of the Kalmar Union, Swedish foreign policy was aimed at gaining control over the Baltic Sea, leading to repeated wars with Denmark from the 1560s onward.
Success in the Thirty Years’ War on the side of the German Protestants, led Gustav II Adolf to become one of Europe’s most powerful monarchs. Sweden defeated Denmark in the two wars of 1643–45 and 1657–58. Sweden also gained Finland, provinces in northern Germany and the present-day Baltic republics. Following the Peace of Westphalia in 1648 and the Peace of Roskilde with Denmark in 1658, Sweden was at the height of its power. The country even founded a short-lived colony in what is now Delaware in North America.
However, Sweden had a largely agrarian economy and lacked the resources to maintain its position as a great power in the long run. After its defeat in the Great Northern War (1700–21) against the combined forces of Denmark, Poland and Russia, Sweden lost most of its provinces on the other side of the Baltic Sea and was reduced essentially to the same frontiers as present-day Sweden and Finland. After the death of king Karl XII in 1718 and Sweden’s defeat in the Great Northern War, the Swedish parliament and council were strong enough to introduce a new constitution that abolished royal absolutism and put power in the hands of parliament.
During the Napoleonic Wars, Sweden surrendered Finland to Russia. As compensation, the French marshal Jean Baptiste Bernadotte, who had been elected heir to the Swedish throne in 1810, succeeded in obtaining Norway, which was forced into a union with Sweden in 1814. This union was peacefully dissolved in 1905 after many internal disputes.
Sweden has not been involved in any war since 1814 and after World War I, Sweden pursued a policy of non-alignment in peacetime and neutrality in wartime, basing its security on a strong national defence. Nonetheless, Sweden joined the League of Nations in 1920, the United Nations in 1946 and the EU in 1995. The Russian invasion of Ukraine in March 2022 prompted Sweden (and Finland) to consider joining NATO and during my visit, in May 2022, both governments voted to join. See: http://www.sweden.se
Sweden covers an area of 450,295 sq km with a population of 10.3 million (Source: https://www.cia.gov/the-world-factbook/countries/ ), making it the 3rd biggest country in the EU in size but 13th in terms of population. When ranking cities by size, some websites include Sollentuna and Södermalm, which have effectively been subsumed into Stockholm. So I have indicated city rankings excluding them.
Stockholm became the capital in 1634. It is spread across 14 islands and so I’ve split the pictures accordingly – with one exception…
Gamla Stan:
Gamla Stan (old town) is the historic heart of the city with narrow cobbled streets, the beautiful churches of St Gertrude and the currently covered-up cathedral, the royal palace and lots of bars and bistros…
St Gertrude’s is a Lutheran church holding services in German. Saint Gertrude of Nivelle lived in the 7th century and is the patron saint of travellers and sailors. The church dates from 1642 although the 86m high spire was added in 1878 after a fire.The interior of St Gertrude’s is ornate and was remodelled in a Baroque style after the fire in 1878Wirströms Pub – very busy but also very friendlyStortorget is the main square in Gamla StanStorkyrkan – Stockholm’s cathedral was consecrated in 1306. It is currently closed for extensive renovation…The Royal Palace – parts of the palace date back to the 13th century but a devastating fire in 1697 destroyed most of the old palace and rebuilding wasn’t completed until 1754 www.kungligaslotten.seIt has 608 rooms and is the largest royal palace in the world (that is still in use as a royal palace)
Riddarholmen:
Riddarholmen is a small island that forms part of the Gamla Stan
The Riddarhuset – House of the Knights – was built between 1641-74 www.riddarhuset.seThe Riddarhuset – House of the Knights – was built between 1641-74 www.riddarhuset.seThe Riddarhuset – House of the Knights – was built between 1641-74 www.riddarhuset.seThe Riddarholmskyrkan – originally part of a Franciscan Monastery, founded in 1270, it is the final resting place of the Swedish kings. The last king to be buried here was Gustaf V in 1950 – www.kungligaslotten.seThe Riddarholmen Church was completed in around 1300 and at that time was built almost entirely of brick, which was unusual in Sweden.Following the Diet of Västerås in 1527, when Sweden broke away from the Roman Catholic church, the Franciscan monks were forced to leave the abbey and the buildings were either demolished or rebuilt. However, the church itself survived…The Court of Appeal
Djurgarden:
The “Visit Stockholm” website describes Djurgården as a “tranquil oasis in the middle of Stockholm”. It has too many attractions to be truly tranquil but it is nice to visit. The island is home to several museums and attractions, such as the Vasa Museum, the Nordiska Museum, Gröna Lund, the Abba museum, Skansen and lovely parks…
Skansen, founded by Artur Hazelius, opened in 1891 and was the first outdoor museum in the world. It features buildings from all around Sweden – some dating as far back as the 16th century but mostly from the 18th and 19th centuries – www.skansen.seGotland ponies – in addition to preserving the history of Sweden with these old buildings, Skansen also helps to conserve rare breeds. There is an aquarium, as well – making it a great place for families and school trips to visit…Seglora Church dates from 1730 and was moved here from Västergötland in 1916This belfry dates from the 1730’s and was donated by the parishioners of Hällestad when the church was destroyed by fireThe Nordiska Museum was founded in 1873 by Artur Hazelius. The building was designed in Renaissance style by Isak Gustaf Clason, and opened in 1907.Nordiska Museum is Sweden’s largest museum of cultural history and brings stories about the life and people of the Nordic region. Discover homes and furniture, traditions and everyday lifestyle as well as fashion, clothes, textiles and jewellery from the past 500 years.
Skogskyrkogården:
Skogskyrkogården – a UNESCO World Heritage site – is not in Djurgården but I thought it went well with the Skansen Museum, which is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. To get here take the T18 line from the city centre in the direction of Farsta Strand The cemetery was created in the 1920’s by Gunnar Asplund and Sigurd Lewerentz https://skogskyrkogarden.stockholm.seUnsurprisingly, there weren’t many visitors as it isn’t most peoples idea of a fun day out. It’s all very uniform and tidy – tranquil but without the character or fascination of London’s “magnificent seven”…There are over 100,000 graves here and about 2,000 burials each year…
Norrmalm and Östermalm:
Norrmalm is where most visitors to Stockholm arrive as it has the central train and bus stations as well as the metro hub (T-Centralen). It runs into Östermalm, which is why I’ve put them together here…
Stockholm Central Train Station is the largest railway station in Sweden. It opened July 18, 1871. The layout is reasonably straightforward and the ticket machines are easy to use. The SJ trains app is pretty good, too. Tickets are train-specific, so I didn’t bother getting returns as I never knew what time I’d be coming back. Usefully you can get combined train & bus tickets – handy if going to Nora from Örebro, for example. However, the bus part of the ticket is also time specific and as punctuality isn’t a major feature of Swedish railways then it’s better not to bother. Buying tickets by card on boarding the bus is easy. Unless, of course, the card machine isn’t working as it wasn’t on the bus to Nora. But let’s not dwell on that as I got a free ride (saving 51kr)… Stockholm City Hall was built between 1911 and 1923 and designed by the Swedish architect Ragnar Östberg in the National Romantic style. Ragnar Östberg was also inspired by Italian Renaissance palaces and therefore built the City Hall with two piazzas – Borgargården and the Blue Hall. The City Hall was built as a workplace for Stockholm’s politicians and civil servants and is still used today. The building also has ceremonial halls for meetings and parties.The Post Museum is housed in the oldest building in the Swedish postal organisation, dating back to the 17th century. It was purchased by the Post Office in 1720, and until 1869 housed Stockholm’s only post office. The museum was opened in 1906 and is owned by PostNord.St Clara’s church is built on the site of a 13th century conventThe convent and original church were destroyed in 1527 during the Reformation on the orders of Gustav Vasa. The current church dates from 1572St Clara’s ChurchDrottninggatan is the main pedestrian street of StockholmGamla Tekniska Hogskolan dates from 1863Adolf Fredrik’s ChurchThe Trygg building in Art Nouveau style, 1910 Kungliga biblioteket is Sweden’s national library – building began in 1871 as the new Royal Library. It became the National Library in 1877. See: https://www.kb.se/in-english/about-us/history.htmlThe Royal Dramatic Theatre (dramaten) – this Art Nouveau gem opened in 1908 – although plans for the theatre date from 1788. See: https://www.sfv.se/The Royal Opera House is Sweden’s national theatre for opera and ballet and opened in 1782. See: https://www.operan.se/en/Although there has been a church on this site since 1311, this incarnation of St James’ Church from the late 16th century with alterations in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries…Glorious sunset
Södermalm:
The southern island is where you can get some great views over central Stockholm. It is home to the Fotografiska museum and two lovely churches…
Katarina kyrka was originally built between 1656-95 but it burned down in 1723, along with many other buildings in the borough. It was rebuilt but was destroyed by fire in 1990. It was rebuilt again and reopened in 1995…Katarina kyrka was originally built between 1656-95 but it burned down in 1723, along with many other buildings in the borough. It was rebuilt but was destroyed by fire in 1990. It was rebuilt again and reopened in 1995…Sofia kyrka is named after Sofia of Nassau – Queen of Sweden from 1872-1907. Building started in 1899 and it opened in 1906To us it’s a fieldfare but to the Swedish it is a björktrast…Nice old houses on Fjällgatan leading to Per Anders Fogelströms Terrass on Södermalm Nice views from Per Anders Fogelströms TerrassNice views from Per Anders Fogelströms TerrassIntriguing photographs by Elizavita Porodina at FotografiskaIntriguing photographs by Elizavita Porodina at FotografiskaIntriguing photograph by Elizavita Porodina at FotografiskaFrom the quaysideFrom the quayside
View from a hotel room:
Uppsala:
Uppsala is the 4th largest city in Sweden but is probably best known for its university, founded in 1477, the first in Scandinavia. Anders Celsius was born here and became a professor at the university, while Carl Linnaeus studied at the university…
Uppsala Central railway station
The Fyrisån:
The Fyrisån runs through the cityThe Fyrisån runs through the cityVästgöta nation (VG), founded in 1639, is a sort of students union at Uppsala University. I’ve not come across this term in relation to university students before. This piece from the Cambridge University website might help explain it if you’re as baffled as I was: Many medieval universities had students from many countries who, for lack of better amusement, frequently fought each other. One solution was to divide them formally into ‘nations’ and to draw up regulations for them. In Britain, and especially in Cambridge, the phenomenon was less disruptive. Oxford, in early days, chose one proctor from the north and one from the south to serve together, representing the northern and the southern ‘nations’ and it is arguable that a similar arrangement prevailed for a time at Cambridge. The ancient statutes give some slight evidence for fights between nations at Cambridge, as for example, in forbidding public gatherings of nations on the feasts of such contentious saints as Hugh, Edmund, Cuthbert and William of York. Norrlands nation was formed in 1827 through a merger of the Bottniska and Medelpado-Jämtland nations. Both of these “nations” seem to have existed since the 1640’s. The grand building dates from 1889.
The Cathedral:
The Gothic Domkyrka is the largest church in Scandinavia. Laurentius Petri became the first Lutheran Archbishop here in 1531. The Archbishop of Uppsala is Sweden’s only archbishop. The towers are 119m tallThe cathedral dates from around 1270The Church of the Holy Trinity dates from around 1300 although the tower was added in the 15th century
Street Scenes:
The Gustavianum Museum opposite the cathedral
Sigtuna:
Sigtuna is one of the oldest towns in Sweden dating from the 10th century. It became an important religious centre with between 6-8 churches (vague as there’s no definitive answer). The ruins of 3 churches and the one remaining church can still be seen…
St Mary’s Church was originally part of a Dominican Friary it has restored medieval wall paintings and is the only church in Sigtuna to have survived the ReformationSt Olaf’sSt LarsSt Peter’s dates from the late 11th century and is one of the oldest stone buildings in SwedenWhat looks like an old windmill on a hill in the Viking Klockbacken cemeterySigtuna is on the edge of Lake Mälaren, in the inner Stockholm archipelago.The museumThe main street is said to be the oldest in Sweden dating back to the 10th century although these buildings date from the 18th century onwardsThe main street is said to be the oldest in Sweden dating back to the 10th century although these buildings date from the 18th century onwardsThe town hall dates from 1744 and is the smallest in Scandinavia
Västerås:
Västerås is the 5th largest city in Sweden, on the shore of Lake Mälaren, and about 100km from Stockholm. It is known as “cucumber city” (gurkstaden) as the area was famed for growing cucumbers in the 18th and 19th centuries. The city is also associated with the Diet of Västerås, which, in 1527, saw Sweden break from Rome and the dissolution of the monasteries…
The ABB Corporate Research Center is located in Västerås,The cathedral dates from the 12th century but what you see is mostly 14th century…Västerås castle – Fiholms Slott – built in a Dutch-French renaissance style was completed around 1630Västerås rådhus (town hall) was inaugurated on November 12, 1860. It was designed by architect Per Johan Ekman in the New Renaissance style and originally housed both a council hall and an ornate banquet hall upstairs. The building was used as a town hall for a little more than a hundred years, until 1963 when the new town hall was completed. Lots of police around as demonstrations are taking place later…On Västerås main street is the property Lovisa 3 also called Sundinska Huset which was built by the tobacco wholesaler Axel Teodard Sundin around 1850 as the wholesaler’s home and office. The house is built in a so-called Karl Johan style by an unknown architect but is usually considered to be Per Axel Nyström who was one of the most active architects of the time. It is now owned and managed by Imperia Fastigheter, a company that appears to buy, restore and maintain historic buildings but keeping them in use as offices or whatever. See: https://imperiafastigheter.seThe Stadshotellet: this Art Nouveau hotel was built in 1907 A nice marketThe old town (gamla stan) isn’t very big but is quite sweetThe SvartånThe Svartån
Ängelsberg:
Ängelsberg is a small village and home to Engelsberg Bruk, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most important early iron works in Europe. It is also home to the world’s oldest surviving oil refinery. It was opened in 1875 but closed in 1902…
Ängelsberg railway station: Oljeön is on the left and Engelsberg Bruk about a kilometre away (a nice, easy walk)… Engelsberg Bruk is a UNESCO World Heritage siteThis was one of the most important iron works in the early days of Europe’s industrial revolution and dates from 1681The blast furnace and forge are still in working orderLooking over Lake Åmänningen at Oljeön (oil island) home to the oldest surviving oil refinery in the world
Linköping:
Linköping is the 7th largest city in Sweden, although http://www.linkoping.se claims it is the 5th biggest. Statistics, eh? It promotes itself thus: Linköping is the number one high-tech city in Sweden but tourists are more likely to be interested in the 13th century limestone cathedral and Gamla Linköping – the biggest outdoor museum in Sweden about 2km west of the city. I didn’t go there although I should have done…
The cathedral dates from around 1250.The spire is 107m tall… Built from carved limestone, it was Sweden’s biggest and most expensive church in the Middle AgesIt has two sets of stained glass windows – the work of a British artist called Brian ClarkeIt has two sets of stained glass windows – the work of a British artist called Brian ClarkeAccording to the plaque this is a medieval house, dating from around 1400The castle houses a museumLinköping Castle is Sweden’s oldest secular building, originally built as the residence of the Bishop, and where some parts date from the 1100´s. Since 1785, the castle has been the residence of the County Governor of Östergötland. In the castle´s north wing is the Castle and Cathedral Museum depicting the bishop’s residence that later became a royal palace, including the Vasa room and the treasury.The Stadhuset (city hall) was completed in 1864 but as a boys’ school before becoming the city hall in 1921…St Lars is a 19th century church in the city centreA sweet little row of 18th century houses on Hunnebergsgatan…
Norrköping:
Norrköping is the 10th largest city in Sweden, although it doesn’t feel smaller than Linköping. It is built around Motala Ström, that runs into the bay of Bråviken on the Baltic Sea. I’ve seen references to the Motala Ström draining Lake Våttern. Looking on Google maps, however, it appears to drain Lake Glan – but what do I know? Anyway, Norrköping was the hub of Sweden’s textile industry and its industrial heritage is well-preserved as the city undergoes regeneration.
Waterside:
Old textile mills and factories line the Motala ström – these are being turned into offices and apartments. Motala ström is the river that flows through Norrköping into the Baltic Sea.During the middle of the 19th century until the beginning of the 20th century the river was harnessed to supply power to Norrköping’s developing textile industry…The ‘Strykjärnet’ (flatiron) building, a former weaving mill and Sweden’s most famous historical factory…The Kungsfallet – the biggest of the river’s falls
Churches:
St Matthew’s ChurchSt Matthew’s Church was built in a neo-Gothic style between 1887 and 1892. The tower is 64 meters high.Imposing entrance to St Olaf’s Church St Olaf’s Church was built between 1765-7 after the previous church had been destroyed in 1719 during the Great Northern War
Street Scenes:
The theatreLooking towards Arbetets (the Museum of Work), which is dedicated to the history and future of working life and society…Bizarrely, you cross the lines here at the railway station. There are barriers to prevent people crossing as trains come through the station but, as you can see, they are easy to get around…
Örebro:
Örebro is the 6th largest city in Sweden. The Visit Sweden website describes it as: “where history and contemporary culture converge” and “a manageably-sized city with diverse activities and sights to take in, along with natural beauty spanning land and water.” – which is not exactly selling it – but I still thought it was worth a visit and, besides, I wanted to see Nora…
The Castle:
The castle dates from 1364 and was used by Danish kings during the Kalmar Union (1397-1523). The Kalmar Union combined Denmark, Finland, Norway and Sweden. It also included the Faroes, Greenland, Iceland and the Shetland Islands. The Union took place in Kalmar where Erik of Pomerania was crowned king in 1397 – see: www.sweden.seLed by Gustav Vasa, Sweden rebelled against the Union in 1521 and Gustav was crowned King of Sweden in 1523. Between 1573 and 1627, the fortress at Örebro was converted into a Renaissance castle. It fell into disrepair and was restored in 1897-1901…Because most of the castle is used for county council offices all you can see inside is the courtyard…
Street Scenes:
The church of St Nicholas dates back to the 13th century but it was substantially altered during renovations between 1863 and 1900Örebro town hall and dates from 1863. The statue is of Engelbrekt Engelbrektsson, leader of the Engelbrekt rebellion of 1434 against King Erik of Pomerania – see: https://www.so-rummet.se/…/engelbrekt-engelbrektsson-i…
Nora:
Nora is a pretty little town on Lake Vikern, about 35km from Örebro
Nora’s church doesn’t appear to be dedicated to any particular saint – there’s an old style phone box by the lamppostNora has an old railway station and a heritage line. The Nora-Örebro Railway, which opened in March1856, was the first normal gauge railway to open in Sweden and the first to use steam locomotives…There’s an odd collection of old railway stock
Gävle:
Gävle (pronounced yerv-luh) is the 13th largest city in Sweden. It was founded in 1446 and is, officially, the oldest town in Norrland, the northern region of Sweden. In 1869 a devastating fire destroyed much of the city – see: www.norrlandmagic.se
The railway station with an English twist – WH Smith is an English chain of newsagents (books & stationery)
The River Gävleån:
The river GävleånThe Heliga Trefaldighetskyrkan dates from 1654 – it replaced a medieval church that burnt down in 1569. The bell tower was added in the late 18th century…Heliga Trefaldighetskyrkan
Around Heliga Trefaldighetskyrkan:
Street Scenes:
The Rådhuset was built between 1782-90 and was badly damaged during the great fire. It was restored in 1871-2St Ansgars Hus – this former church dates from 1929The council has devised an interesting and enjoyable 5km walk that takes in the city’s main attractions. I think that Gävle is my favourite city in Sweden…Gävle Castle dates from 1583-97 and was the most northerly of the Vasa-castles (castles built by Gustav Vasa or his sons). It was badly damaged during a fire in 1727 and restored in 1754. It is now used for county council offices…The theatreThe RådhusetSeen from the train, I think this is Salsta Slott, about 25km north of Uppsala – http://www.salsta-slott.se
Malmö:
Malmö is Sweden’s 3rd largest city. These photos were taken when I visited Malmö in November 2019. I came here by train from Copenhagen…
Trains depart from København Central Station every 20 minutes and take 35 minutes to the centre of Malmö…
I came to Malmö sometime in the mid 90’s – I flew back from Malmö to Copenhagen in a helicopter (the only time I’ve been in one) as this was before the bridge linking the two cities was built…Malmö stortorget (market square) dates from around 1540The Rådhuset was built between 1544-7 but the façade dates from the 1860’s The Rådhuset was built between 1544-7 but the façade dates from the 1860’sThe stortorget retains many fine 16th century buildingsThe Lilla Torg (small square) – dates from 1592 as a market square, the mainly-pedestrianised cobbled precinct is ringed by timbered housesThe Lilla Torg (small square) – dates from 1592 as a market square, the mainly-pedestrianised cobbled precinct is ringed by timbered housesThe Lilla Torg (small square) – dates from 1592 as a market square, the mainly-pedestrianised cobbled precinct is ringed by timbered housesSt Peter’s Church (St Petri kyrka) dates back to the early 14th century and is the oldest building in Malmö. It was built in the style of the “Baltic Brick Gothic” and is similar to the Marienkirche in Lübeck, Germany. The tower collapsed twice in the 15th century and the current tower and spire date from 1890.Malmöhus – the castle formed part of the 17th century fortifications. The castle is open to the public and the grounds include a nice aquarium and natural history museum…There was a group of 14 herons sitting on the bank, stoically ignoring the sleet-rain-hail that was being driven by a chilly old breeze…About 200m from the Malmöhus is this excellent nautical and technical museum. One ticket to visit this museum and the castle cost a mere 40sk Lots of model shipsSweden switched to driving on the right in September 1967…A 1938 Adler – Adler was a German manufacturer of cars and motorcycles from 1900 to 1957. After WWII they stopped making cars and concentrated on motorbikes but their designs were given to BSA, in England, as part of the war reparations. This prompted Adler to move to producing office equipment and then bought by Grundig in 1957…A 1953 Saab 92bA 1947 Volvo PV444Oh, the excitementA Volvo PV544 I saw at the Skansen Museum in Stockholm
Barnaby – another fascinating narrative and pictures giving an insight into Sweden, somewhere I know surprisingly little about. Look forward to the next installment! Terry.
Barnaby – another fascinating narrative and pictures giving an insight into Sweden, somewhere I know surprisingly little about. Look forward to the next installment! Terry.