So: another trip to France. Eurostar to Paris and then a TGV to Lyon, where I’ll stay for six nights. There are 94 departments in mainland France – albeit numbered 1-95 (there’s a reason for that). Corsica is split into 2 departments and there are a further 5 overseas departments. Curiously, Tahiti isn’t one of them and, stupidly, I didn’t go to French Guyana when I was in Suriname but that’s another story…
So: it seems I’ve been to 26 departments and this trip will allow me to add another 4 – that’s still pretty weedy, but hey…
This post features Lyon, Grenoble, Dijon, Chambéry, Vienne and Pérouges…
Paris
Gare de Lyon:
I decided to splash out on Business Premier – this means you get to sit near the front of the train, making for a swift exit at Gare du Nord…The Gare de Lyon is easily reached from the Gare du Nord. From the Gare du Nord, you can either take the 91 bus or take Metro line 5 and get out at Quai de La Rapée and then it’s a short walk. I stayed overnight at the Mercure Hotel so there was no chance of missing the train to Lyon…The layout of the Gare du Lyon is not immediately clear. In Halle 1 the platforms are in alphabetical order…Meanwhile, in Halle 2 the platforms are in numerical order. It’s a 5-minute walk between the two halls. In case you think it’s just me being obtuse, I guided a French lady from Halle 1 to Halle 2 as she couldn’t figure out where her train to Marseille was leaving from as there was clearly no platform 9 in Halle 1…From my bedroom window I could see the Place de Bastille…It’s not Kelly Street (Kentish Town) but it’s sweet…
Lyon
Lyon is the administrative capital of the Rhône department (69) and the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region. It is also France’s second city, one of the oldest cities in the country and known as the gourmet capital of France. Its large historic centre, Le Vieux Lyon, is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and has the largest collection of Renaissance buildings in Europe. I didn’t see as much of the centre as I could, indeed should, have done…
The TGV does the journey from Paris, about 390km, in 1hr56. It’s probably worth noting that it is mandatory to label luggage on both Eurostar and SNCF…
The Rhône:
The River Rhône, just over 500 miles long (813km), rises in the Swiss Alps, passes through Lake Geneva and then runs through south eastern France to the Mediterranean. The river divides into two branches, at Arles, known as the Grand Rhône and the Petit Rhône and the resulting delta constitutes the Camargue region…
The Saône:
The Saône flows for 300 miles (480km) from the Vosges Mountains and joins the Rhône in Lyons and is navigable for 230 miles (375km) between Corre and Lyon.
Saint-Jean-Baptiste Cathedral:
The Cathedral Saint Jean-Baptiste with the 19th century Notre Dame de Fourvière in the background…The Cathedral of Sant Jean-Baptiste was built between 1175 to 1480, originally in a Romanesque style and then morphing into Gothic over the 300 years it took to build…
Basilica of Notre Dame of Fourvière:
The basilica Notre-Dame of Fourvière is the work of the architects Pierre Bossan and Sainte-Marie Perrin and was paid for by public subscription. It was built between 1872 to 1884 and consecrated in 1896. The basilica is at the top of “the hill which prays”. It is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and is listed as a historical monument, registered to the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Photo copyright: https://thisislyon.fr/
Église Saint-Bonaventure:
The original church was built in just two years – from 1325-27 but then expanded between 1471-84. It underwent restoration in the early 1600s but after the revolution became a grain store. It became a church again in 1806 during which period it gained the current facade before being enlarged during the 1890s…
Palais de la Bourse:
Built between 1853 and 1860 when it was inaugurated by Napoleon III and Empress Eugenie. It underwent restoration between 2000 and 2004…The glass-fronted Monoprix opposite the Bourse…
Place de la République:
Don’t be fooled into thinking that the Place de la Republique is traffic-free – it is semi-pedestrianised, so be careful…
Hôtel du Département:
Built between 1882-90, the grand design was regarded as a proud symbol of the Third Republic…
Around Lyon Part-Dieu:
As you come out of Lyon Part-Dieu you are faced with a huge Westfield shopping centre and the hideous tower block that houses the Radisson Blu Hotel – my home for 6 nights…The hotel reception is on the 32nd floor – judging by the state of the building and the area immediately around it, I’m guessing floors 1-31 aren’t used…The view from my room is quite grand…Breakfast with a view…
Grenoble
Grenoble is the administrative capital of Isère (38). It claims to be the flattest city in France – which is an odd thing to boast about but it is easy to walk and cycle around – it’s a nice, friendly city with its squares, narrow streets and wide boulevards – surrounded by stunning mountains…
The Old Town:
The Place Victor HugoJardin de VilleThe Fontaine des Trois Ordres, in the Place Notre Dame, was erected in homage to the pre-revolutionary events of the summer of 1788 in Grenoble…
Cathedral Notre Dame:
The cathedral was built in the 11th and 12th centuries on the site of a former church, and has undergone many changes and renovations over the years, including the addition of a Gothic choir in the 14th century and a bell tower in the 15th century…
Collégiale Saint-André
The collegiate church of Saint-André was founded in 1228 by André Dauphin, Count of Viennois, as a private chapel for the Dauphin dynasty…
Musée de Grenoble:
The astonishingly ugly Musée de Grenoble has one of the biggest collections of art in Europe, ranging from ancient Egyptian to the 21st century and entry is free. It’s probably worth noting that a lot of attractions in France, such as Cathedrals, Galleries and Museums, close for lunch. Not all, obviously, but enough that it’s worth checking in advance…
Dauphinois Museum:
The Dauphinois Museum sits high above the banks of the Isère. It is housed in the former convent of the Sisters of the Visitation and features exhibits relating to the people of, and life in, the Dauphiné Alps…Looking down from the museum over the cityLooking down from the museum over the city
Riverside:
The River Isère rises in the Savoie Alpes on the Italian border and flows for 290km before joining the Rhône near Valence Three rivers cross through the area: the Drac and the Romanche which flow into the Isère…
The Railway Station:
Grenoble is about 1hr25 by train from Lyon Part-Dieu
La Tour-du-Pin
The train between Lyon and Grenoble passes through La Tour du Pin with a fine view of the 16th century Notre-Dame de l’Assomption
Dijon
Dijon is the administrative capital of Côte d’Or département (21) and of the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region lies at the confluence of the Ouche and Suzon rivers…
The fastest TGV between Lyon and Dijon takes 1hr25 while the regular TER takes around 2hr03When I came here in 2011 they were digging up the city to put in a tram network – and now it’s being extendedThe former church of St Jean, built between 1448-70, is now used as a concert hall (Théâtre du Parvis Saint-Jean) – albeit it is currently closed for restoration…
The Old Town:
Place François Rude is in the heart of Dijon city and named after the sculptor François Rude. A water fountain in the middle of the square features a statue known as The Vendangeur… The Rue Verrerie is known for its 16th century buildings The Rue Verrerie is known for its 16th century buildings The Musée Rude is a small museum dedicated to the French sculptor François Rude…The museum is housed in the former Église Saint-Étienne of Dijon, which dates from the 11th century…The Saint-Étienne church was built in the 15th century, secularized at the beginning of the 17th century and the facade transformed in the 18th century. However, it was looted and closed during the French Revolution and now houses the Colette Library…
The Cathedrale Saint Bénigne:
The former Benedictine abbey of Saint-Bénigne was built between 1280-1325 on the site of an 11th century church. It became a cathedral in 1792 but was plundered during the French Revolution before undergoing restoration in the 19th century…The 12th century Church of St Philibert the only Romanesque church in Dijon. It ceased to be used to be used as a church during the revolution and was used for storage. It was restored in the 1970s and became a cultural centre…
Église Saint-Michel de Dijon:
The Church of St Michael was re-built in the 15th and 16th centuries on the site of a 9th century chapel that itself was enlarged in 1020. From what i can gather, the glorious Renaissance facade dates from the 17th century…
Church of Notre-Dame:
According to Lonely Planet, the church was built between 1220-40 but according to Destination Dijon.com it dates from 1230-50 – so, who knows? What everyone does seem to agree on is the 14th-century Horloge à Jacquemart, which chimes every quarter-hour. It was transported from Flanders in 1383 by Philip the Bold who claimed it as a trophy of war…
Ducal Palace:
The Palace of the Dukes and States of Burgundy was rebuilt in the 15th century under Philip the Good, becoming the residence of the king and the governor of the province from the 16th century. It is now joined to the palace of the States of Burgundy, which was built from the 17th century onwards. The facade of this group of buildings was unified, creating the palace as we see it today, centred on a main courtyard and the square, and framed by two courtyards: The palace now houses the town hall, the fine arts museum, the municipal archives and the tourist office…The Place de la Libération was originally called the Place Royale when it was created between 1681-6…
Musée des Beaux Arts:
The Museum of Fine Arts is located in the eastern wing of the old palace of the dukes and states of Burgundy.Tomb of Philip the Bold, one of the Dukes of BurgundyTomb of John the Fearless, one of the Dukes of Burgundy
City Centre:
Parc et Jardin DarcyThe Place Darcy with the last of the city’s 12 gates. The original gate was called the Condé Gate but was demolished in 1786 to make way for this triumphal arch…The triumphal arch of Porte Guillaume in the Place Darcy. Although this arch dates from the 18th century it is on the site of a 12th century gate that formed part of the city’s fortifications and was one of the main entrances…The Post OfficeThe indoor marketThe Place de la République
Chambéry
Chambéry is the administrative capital of the Savoie département (73) and the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region. It is about 1hr26 by TER from Lyon Part-Dieu…
Savoy only became a part of France in 1861. It was part of an empire that, at its peak, included Sardinia, Sicily and Switzerland…
On leaving the station, ignore the signs indicating that the town centre is straight on. It isn’t – well, it sort of is but it’s convoluted – much easier to turn left and you are minutes from la Musée des Beaux-Arts and the Palais de Justice…
Château des Ducs de Savoie:
The château was founded in the 11th century, rebuilt in the 15th century, and was home to the counts and dukes of Savoy. Since 1860, it has housed the Préfecture and Conseil Général of the Savoie département…The gardens are open to the public and guided tours of the treasury and chapel are available between May-September…
Cathédrale Saint-François-de-Sales:
It was built in the 15th century by the Franciscans and became a cathedral in 1779, when the diocese of Chambéry was created. Behind a simple façade, it houses the largest collection of trompe-l’oeil paintings in Europe (6000m²).The cathedral is decorated with 6000 sq metres of trompe l’œil painting. The largest such feature in any building in Europe, the decorations – created by 19th-century artists Sevesi and Vicario – deceive the eyes into seeing Gothic vaults, an ornate carved ceiling and a mystical labyrinth that leads believers to Jerusalem…The cathedral has lots of fine 19th-century Swiss stained-glass windows…
Église de Notre Dame:
Building of this Baroque style church began in 1599 and was completed in 1646. It was originally the chapel of the Jesuit convent. It became a hospital during the French revolution, the facade was restored in 1864 when it reverted to being a church…
Museums:
La Musée de Savoie is adjacent to the cathedral and is a fascinating place: it contains historical documents relating to the house of Savoie and lots of other interesting artefacts and it’s free…Whereas La Musée des Beaux-Arts is a bit half-arsed… La Palais de Justice – the last Sardinian-style building in Chambéry, built between 1850-1860. Built originally for the Sénat de Savoie, it has been used for the Regional Court and Appeal Court since the Savoie region was annexed by France. The statue of Antoine Favre, in the centre of the square, is the work of Charles-Alphonse Guméry. The magistrate’s gown and the pile of books on the side recall the most illustrious legal scholar in the Savoie (1557-1624), who later became the first Président du Sénat de Savoie in Chambéry. On each side of the statue of Favre are two allegories – science and jurisprudence…
La Fontaine des Éléphants:
One of the town’s emblematic monuments, this fountain was built in 1838 to pay tribute to General de Boigne, who made his fortune in the East Indies and who was a major benefactor of Chambéry, his native town…
Vienne
Vienne is a small city on the Rhône about 20 minutes by train from Lyon Part-Dieu. In the 3rd century B.C., Vienne was the capital of the Gallic tribe of the Allobroges before falling into the hands of the Roman Empire and it still has several Roman ruins as well as medieval churches. It is one of France’s designated Cities of Art and History – of which there are 125. See: https://www.francethisway.com/tourism/towns-art-and-history.php
The railway stationA mural commemorating those that died in WW1The Hôtel de Ville
Cathedral of Saint Maurice:
Saint Maurice Cathedral: the first cathedral was built in the 4th century AD and then successively rebuilt between the 12th and 16th centuries. It was restored in the second half of the 19th century
Temple of Augustus and Livia:
The temple of Augustus and Livia was built about 20-10 BC and dedicated to the cult of Rome and Augustus…
Jardin Archéologique de Cybèle:
The Cybèle archaeological garden features the remains of the administrative centre of the Roman city: the forum, a municipal assembly room and a large town house…The Theatre Antique de Vienne, a first century amphitheatre – built around 40-50ad and said to have been one of the largest in Gaul. It was excavated between 1908-38 and restored in the late 1970s, re-opening in 1981…
St Peter’s Church:
Deconsecrated during the French Revolution and turned into a stone museum in 1876, it is – or was – one of the oldest churches in France with parts dating from the 5th century…Early Christian sarcophagi show the influence of what was once a highly prestigious basilica. Christian prelates and dignitaries (including Saint-Mamert, Saint Leoniano) were buried in St Peter’s Church until the 9th century, a sign of their power and influence…
The Market:
The second largest market in France takes place in Vienne city centre every Saturday morning, wide selection of local produce and specialities. The largest market in France is Rungis – which is near Créteil and Orly Airport – it used to be wholesale only but is now open to the public (https://rungismarket.com/en)
The Museum of Fine Art and Archaeology, housed in the old 19th-century corn exchange on Place de Miremont, contains collections of Gallo-Roman objects, French earthenware, and paintings dating from the 14th to the 20th centuries.
Riverside:
La Tour des Valois is a 13th century tower, about 30m high – it’s not open to the public…
Pérouges
Pérouges is a medieval walled town perched on a small hill that overlooks the plain of the river Ain. Trains between Lyon and Meximieux take 33 minutes and from there it’s an easy 25-minute walk to Pérouges…
At the start of the 20th century Pérouges was faced with destruction. In 1911 a group of concerned citizens – including Edouard Herriot, then mayor of Lyon – decided to save the village and formed an association. Each member was asked to buy a house in Perouges and to rebuild it. The village was reborn and tourists began visiting what was fast becoming a medieval village – again… https://www.offbeatfrance.com/perouges-france.html
A great ‘travelog’ again Barnaby. Seeing this makes me realise that I need to plan a return trip to Dijon – I used it as an overnight stop in 2019 and stayed on the outskirts so missed the historic parts. Grenoble & Annecy are on a future planned Euro trip so could add Dijon on the way. Cheers. Terry.
Thank you, Terry – with the benefit of hindsight I should have added Annecy and Chalon-sur-Saône to my itinerary. Dijon is certainly worth revisiting. Hope you’re well! Cheers, Barnaby
A great ‘travelog’ again Barnaby. Seeing this makes me realise that I need to plan a return trip to Dijon – I used it as an overnight stop in 2019 and stayed on the outskirts so missed the historic parts. Grenoble & Annecy are on a future planned Euro trip so could add Dijon on the way. Cheers. Terry.
Thank you, Terry – with the benefit of hindsight I should have added Annecy and Chalon-sur-Saône to my itinerary. Dijon is certainly worth revisiting. Hope you’re well! Cheers, Barnaby