This post features: Lille, Arras, Bethune, Douai, Hénin-Beaumont and Lens as part of a trip in June 2023 and Rouen, Reims and Troyes from a trip in October 2023…
I used Lille as a base and stayed there for 6-nights. The region of France and Belgium around Lille is known for its belfries. There are 56 belfries that, collectively, make up a UNESCO World Heritage Site – see: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/943/#:
Although they are known as belfries in English, in French they are beffroi and in early English berfrey. They were built as watchtowers and didn’t have bells. Over time bells were added and the English spelling changed to belfry…
I didn’t see all 56, needless to say, but the 7 that I did see are featured in this post and in the post on Belgium…
Lille
Lille has undergone significant regeneration since the 1990s, transforming it from an industrial centre into a cultural and commercial hub. The Eurostar from St Pancras is scheduled to do the journey in just 1hr 22mins; Brussels is 34 minutes away and the fastest train to Paris takes just over an hour. Highlights include its enchanting old town with magnificent French and Flemish architecture…
Lille Europe:
The area around Lille Europe station is all concrete and glass and uninspiring – contrast this with the fabulous city centre that’s a mere 10-minute walk away…Lille Europe station was built in 1993 for Eurostar and TGV high speed rail services. It only has 4 platforms that are numbered 43 & 45 and 44 & 46, which seems a bit odd…Lille Flanders is where all the regional services go from. It also has some TGV services…
La Grande Place:
The OperaThe Bourse
Glorious Sunset:
Churches:
No longer a church, it now houses the tourist information officeThe church of St Maurice dates from the 14th century but was added to and altered over the years. The 68m high spire was added in the 19th century This astonishingly ugly façade is part of the Cathedral of the Notre Dame de la Treille…Building began in 1845 but the awful additions belong to the 1990sThe former church of St Marie-Madeleine was begun in 1667 but badly damaged in the siege of 1708. It was subsequently restored but is now deconsecrated and occasionally used for exhibitions…
Vieux Lille:
Place des OignonsPlace de Louise de Bettignies
The Belfry:
The belfry, part of the town hall, is 104m high and was built in 1932 – it’s part of the UNESCO belfry collective
Arras
Arras is famous for its two magnificent cobbled squares: Grand’Place and Place des Héros (Heroes Square).
I took the TGV to Arras, which is 52km from Lille. The journey took 42 minutes as the train went via Douai. The return journey, also on a TGV, took 19 minutes as it was a direct link between the two cities…
The Belfry and the Place des Héros:
The belfry is 75m highPlace des Héros
Views from the Belfry:
From the viewing platform – there’s a lift and then just 43 steps. The church of Saint John the Baptist in the backgroundThe former Benedictine Abbey Cathedral of St Vaast – begun in 1774 and consecrated in 1833. Restoration following damage sustained during WWI was completed in 1934. It is now undergoing further restoration and the cathedral is currently closed
The Cathedral:
The Palais des Beaux-Arts is apparently one of the richest French museums. The building was built between 1885 and 1892
Street Scenes:
Le Grand PlaceLe Grand PlaceInside the 16th century church of Saint John the BaptistRue du Bloc
Bethune
The Belfry:
The belfry dates from the 14th century and was built as a gift to the local populace for their loyalty to the crownIt burnt down in 1346 and again in 1664 and was rebuilt each time. It was badly damaged in 1918…
Le Grand Place:
In 1918, 90% of the square was destroyed…
St Vaast:
St Vaast (or Vedast) was born around 453 and died in Arras in 540. Sadly, there was a funeral underway at the time of my visit so I didn’t go in…
Familiar Faces:
Douai
The old town in Douai has a mix of different architectural styles including Flemish, 18th century French town houses and several art deco buildings…
The Belfry:
The 15th century belfry has one of the biggest sets of bells in Europe: 62 bells. The outside has four small towers and a beautiful Gothic spire. The belfry was painted by Corot (the painting is now in the Louvre) and Victor Hugo said it was the most beautiful belfry in France…
St Peter’s:
Le Grand Place:
Place d’ArmesPlace d’ArmesThe Douai tourist office is in an 18th century house called the Hotel du Dauphin
Hénin-Beaumont
I hadn’t intended to go to Hénin-Beaumont but a couple of things caught my eye as we came into the station…
St Martin’s:
The current church of Saint-Martin was built between 1929-32 on the site of the previous church that was blown up by the Germans in 1917. Built in a Romano-Byzantine style and consisting of a concrete framework covered with reconstituted stone for the exterior facings and slate for the roof.
Hotel de Ville:
Lens
St Leger’s:
The present church is a reconstruction of the former church destroyed in 1918. The Belfry of St Leger – St Leger was English and lived from 1496 to 1559. He isn’t the patron saint of horse racing, though – that’s St Stephen…Inside St Leger it’s a bit gloomy but it has great acoustics – as I found out when I sneezed
Le Grand Place:
Louvre – Lens:
The Museum of Louvre-Lens – it’s built on the site of a former coal mine
Not the Louvre-Lens:
Appearances can be deceptive…Not very accurate directions: come out of this building, turn right and then turn right on to Rue Paul Bert and walk for about 500m into what looks like open countryside…
Rouen
Rouen – twinned with Norwich – has a glorious old town with some magnificent churches. The old town has about 2,000 half-timbered houses…
The city has put in a bid to become the European City of Culture for 2028…
The railway reached Rouen in 1841 but by 1912 a new station was needed to cope with the increase in traffic. The Art Nouveau Rouen Rive-Droite, designed by Adolphe Devaux, opened in 1928. Construction of the then new station is of steel frame and reinforced concrete…
Churches:
The church of St Godard is built on the site of a former sanctuary, which burnt down in 1248. The church is known for its stained-glass windows from the 16th to the 19th centuries…St Godard’s is adjacent to the former church of St LaurentThe former church of St Laurent is now home to the Ironworks Museum containing a collection donated by Henri Le Secq des Tournelles The former church of St Laurent and now the Ironworks MuseumFounded in 563, the abbey of Saint-Ouen was one of the most influential Benedictine monasteries in Normandy. The first church built on the site where St. Ouen (also known as Audoin or Dado) was buried in 864. The abbey was sacked by the Vikings and another sanctuary was built in Romanesque style by the abbot Nicholas of Normandy from 1062. The works ended in 1126 and the relics of St. Ouen transferred inside the same year.The Romanesque church was destroyed by fire in 1248. In 1318 under the direction of abbot Jean Roussel, the reconstruction of the choir was done in Gothic style. The Hundred Years’ War slowed down the construction process and the nave was only completed in 1537. The western façade wasn’t completed until the 19th century with the construction of its twin spires. As you can see, it is currently undergoing significant restoration…The abbey of Saint-Ouen was desecrated during the French Revolution and was later used as the City-Hall. Even though the sanctuary has been handed back to the Church, it does not serve as a church – it is used as a centre for exhibitions and concerts…The abbey of Saint-OuenThe abbey of Saint-OuenThe abbey of Saint-OuenThe beautiful Gothic Church of St Maclou was built between 1437 and 1517. It was closed during the French Revolution and turned into a weapons factory until reverting to a church in 1802.The spire was added between 1868 and 1870 by architect Jacques-Eugène Barthélémy. Surmounted by a rooster, the neo-Gothic structure set on the lantern tower is 83m high. The church suffered badly during WW2 and has undergone several stages of restoration since the 1950sThe church is dedicated to Saint-Maclou (c.520-621), one of the seven founder saints of Brittany. He gave his name to the city of Saint-Malo and is also known as Saint-Malo or Maclovious…St MaclouSt MaclouThe spire of the Cathedral of Notre Dame is the tallest in France at 151mThe Archbishop of Rouen has his seat in the Rouen Cathedral and is one of 15 archbishops in France… The previous Romanesque cathedral was destroyed in a fire during Easter 1200. Building of a new cathedral began and the Gothic nave was completed between 1234 and 1237. The side chapels were finished around 1265-1275, while the western façade was built between 1370-1450…During the Wars of Religion, the Huguenots sacked the cathedral in 1562, hence the absence of statues and then, during the French Revolution, the new authorities in place transformed the cathedral into a Temple of Reason. The cathedral was badly damaged in 1944 during a bombing raid and did not reopen until 1956…Cathedral of Notre DameCathedral of Notre DameCathedral of Notre DameCathedral of Notre DameCathedral of Notre Dame
Historic Rouen:
Although it’s called the Tower of Joan of Arc, she was never held here. The tower is the only part that remains from the medieval castle of Rouen. The walls are 4m thick and the tower is about 30m high.. Its tall sharp-pointed roof was added at the time of the restoration undertaken in the 1870s… The Gros-Horloge – an astronomic clock set in a Renaissance arch which has spanned the street since 1527…The Gros-Horloge apparently dates back to the 16th century although its movement dates from 1389, making it one of the oldest in Europe. It has been powered by electricity since the 1920s and was last restored between 1997-2006The 14th century belfry attached to the Gros-HorlogeLe Palais de Justice – was built during the reign of Louis XII and previously housed the Royal Palace, and the Exchequer of Normandy. It became the Parliament of Normandy in the sixteenth century. From 1509 to 1525 Roulland Le Roux was master builder of the city of Rouen and completed the central block of the Palais de justice of Rouen that was begun by Roger Ango in 1508. It has an astonishing number of gargoyles…The style is Late Gothic, but much of what remains after damage in WWII, is neo-Gothic by Lucien Lefort and others. Only the west wing on the left of the facade is truly Gothic. This oldest part of the building is called New Market Hall (Palais du Neuf Marché) – of course it is…The Musée des Beaux-Arts
The Old Town:
Reims
Cathedral of Notre Dame:
The Cathedral of Notre-Dame, Former Abbey of St Remi and the Palace of Tau are a UNESCO World Heritage site. The 13th century architecture and the harmonious marriage of sculptural decoration with architecture, has made Notre-Dame in Reims one of the masterpieces of Gothic art. The former abbey still has its beautiful 9th-century nave, in which lie the remains of Archbishop St Rémi (440–533), who instituted the Holy Anointing of the kings of France. The former archiepiscopal palace known as the Tau Palace, which played an important role in religious ceremonies, was almost entirely rebuilt in the 17th century. The palace was closed for restoration at the time of my visit…
Construction took place between 1211 and 1516. With great artistic richness, Reims Cathedral ranks among the most beautiful examples of Gothic art. Reims has been a major city since Gallic times. First as the main city of the Remi (a Gallic tribe), then it became the capital of the province of Belgium – a large territory covering the north of what was Gaul at the time…St. Nicaise founded the first cathedral Notre Dame de Reims in 401. During the Middle Ages, Reims was an important religious centre and incorporated the cathedral and three great abbeys: Saint-Remi, Saint-Nicaise and Saint-Denis. A new cathedral was built in 820 and consecrated in 862 but, unfortunately this burnt down with a large part of the city in 1210. A year later, the Archbishopordered the construction of new walls of the current Gothic building above the foundations…Construction of the current cathedral began in 1211 and continued until 1252 – although the two towers weren’t completed until the early 15th century. In 1481 the roof was badly damaged in a fire and repairs took 9 years. The cathedral suffered badly during the French Revolution. In the 19th century, French writer Victor Hugo instigated a campaign to protect Gothic architecture in France, which led to the cathedral’s restoration. The cathedral was badly damaged during WW1 but, in 1924, the cathedral received a donation from John D. Rockefeller for its restoration…These 3 windows are by the Belarusian artist Marc Chagall
Basilica of St Remi and Museum:
The Basilica of St Remi is also a UNESCO World Heritage siteThe museum is located in the 17th and 18th century buildings of the former St. Remi Royal Abbey, where the holy ampula, used to anoint the kings of France, was kept.The 11th century Romanesque nave was lengthened by two transepts at the end of the 12th century to render it accessible to a greater number of pilgrims.
The City:
The town hall was built in stages between 1627 and 1636 and finished in the 19th century,The Church of Saint-Jacques is the oldest medieval parish church to have survived the French Revolution. Built in around 1190 to serve the craftsmen’s district of La Couture, its transept, the oldest part, recalls that of Saint-Remi. The nave dates from the 13th century and the choir was rebuilt in the 16th, combining the Flamboyant and Renaissance styles. It also has some notable stained-glass windows…
The Railway Station:
Troyes
Troyes is the ancient capital of the Champagne-Ardennes region famous for its vineyards and champagne. It lies in the heart of the Aube department in north-central France, approximately 150 km from Paris and easily reached by train from the Gare de l’Est in about 1hr30. The city centre is aptly shaped like the cork of a champagne bottle with a rectangular outline defined by avenues of trees and a rounded top circled by the River Seine. Troyes is full of narrow, cobbled streets and medieval half-timbered buildings, it is a picturesque town and a real treat. A great place to lose yourself for 3-4 hours as you wander aimlessly, marvelling at how it has survived…
St Pantaleon -parish church of Troyes’ Polish community. Supposedly built on the site of a synagogue it is a veritable museum of 16th century Troyes statuary, as statues saved during the revolution were hidden here… St Pantaleon was, during the Renaissance, a wealthy parish where works of art, such as statues and stained glass windows were displayed. After the Revolution, 16th century sculptures rescued from other buildings were brought there, transforming it into a museum of Champagne religious statuary.St Pantaleon: at the start of the 16th century, the original church was replaced by a stone building that was partially burned in 1524. Building of a new, larger church began in 1527. Around 1740, a span and the classic façade were added…The Basilica of St Urban was consecrated as a basilica in 1964 and is regarded as a fine example of Gothic art. Pope Urbain IV was born in 1185 in Troyes in a house that was demolished to make room for the Saint-Urbain church. Urbain IV’s name was Jacques Pantaléon. The son of a cobbler from Troyes, he briefly studied at the Cathedral school and then left to study theology at the Sorbonne around 1200…Building of the Basilica of St Urban began in 1261 but was not consecrated until 1389 and finally completed at the end of the 19th century…The Basilica of St Urban is known for its superb proportions, its stone lace and huge windowsThe Cathedral of St Peter and St Paul: a church is believed to have been here since the 5th century. The Normans destroyed it in 890 and a replacement wasn’t built until the end of the 10th century. This was destroyed by fire in 1188 with rebuilding begun in 1198. Construction continued throughout the 13th and 14th centuries…The west façade, a masterpiece by Martin Chambiges, a master mason from Paris, was finished in 1554, along with the base of the Saint-Pierre tower, which was not completed until 1634.The Cathedral is famous for housing one of the most stunning collections of stained glass windows in France, with more than 1,500 sq. m of painted glasswork… The Church of St Nizier – closed for renovation
Half-Timbered Buildings:
Ruelles des Chats:
Legend has it that Rue des Chats is so-named because the roofs and lofts are so close together that cats can jump across from one side of the street to the other. Although, the stanchions on the buildings actually prevent them from making the leap across…The Rue Maillard in the 15th century was soon called by its inhabitants the «ruelle des Chats» (cat alley), which became its official name…
Streets in the Old Town:
Other Scenes of Interest:
The garden in front of the Museum Saint Loup – the Cathedral of Saints Peter & Paul is on the right. The Museum is named after Saint Loup (383-478), bishop of Troyes, who saved the city from the hordes of Attila, king of the Huns, in 451. The old abbey built in his honor was destroyed around 887 by the Norman invasions, but rebuilt in its current location in the 17th and 18th centuries, then extended in the 19th and 20th centuries…By the Museum St Loup – the museum houses collections of art, archeology and natural history…At the Museum St Loup
