This post features: Glasgow, Stirling, Perth, Dundee, Montrose, Aberdeen, Elgin from a trip in August, 2021. Scotland was still in the grip of Covid restrictions and so I wasn’t able to visit all of the churches and museums that I wanted. A repeat trip is required. Oh, and there’s a random photo of Jedburgh from 2014…
Scotland 2 features Inveraray, Campbeltown, Inverness, Cromarty and Invergordon. It will also include Edinburgh, Leith, Haddington, Kelso, Dunfermline and Culross when I get around to it…
At some point I should revisit Shetland, Orkney, Lewis, Skye and Islay so that I can do a separate islands post. I’ve not been to Arran, Mull and Jura…
Glasgow
Churches:
The Cathedral of St MungoThe first stone church on this site dates from 1136 and which was rebuilt in 1197. It was enlarged between 1233-58 and then again around 1330Although there was major reconstruction in 1805 a lot of the 14th century building is still visibleI had to book a ticket online – today was sold-out (as you can see) – so lucky I did…The cemetery – or Necropolis – was created in 1831 on land that was known as Fir Park…
Museums and Galleries:
The Hunterian Art gallery, in this astonishingly ugly building, is best known for its extensive collection of paintings and sketches by James McNeill Whistler. It is part of Glasgow University…The Hunterian Museum is in this part of Glasgow University – this building was designed by George Gilbert Scott and dates from 1870 albeit it was built on older university buildingsIt isn’t the most interesting museum…The Kelvingrove Gallery and Museum is huge – I couldn’t go in as you still have to pre-book tickets and the ticket I thought I’d downloaded turned out just to be just a confirmation of my account – so what happened to the ticket itself I’ve no idea – it didn’t cost anything but still irritating…The Glasgow Gallery of Modern Art was fully booked – so I couldn’t go in – it’s yet another example of a fine building that is poorly maintained – what is it about Glasgow?So: having failed to book all the museums and galleries I wanted to see, I’ll just have to come back…
City Grandeur:
Glasgow City Chambers – In the early 1880s, City Architect John Carrick was asked to propose a site for purpose-built council offices. Carrick recommended the east side of George Square which was then bought. The City Chambers were completed in 1888The first council meeting was held in the building on 10 October, 1889.St Andrew’s In The Square is a former Georgian church, built around 1753 by master mason Mungo Naismith and commissioned by the city’s Tobacco Lords as a demonstration of their wealth and power.The building was used continuously as a church for 240 years up to 1993. In the late 1990s, the building received a £1.5m renovation to transform it back to its former Georgian glory. St Andrews In The Square re-opened to the public in November 2000 as Glasgow’s centre for Traditional Scottish Music, Song and Dance.Glasgow Central Station – the Caledonian Railway finally received an Act to bridge the river Clyde and build Glasgow Central Station (then known as Gordon Street Station) in 1873. The passenger demand on the station quickly overwhelmed the facilities and a few years later Central was expanded, adding a ninth platform. This was only a temporary solution and between 1899 and 1905 the station was substantially expanded by the architect James Miller. In the 1990s, £80m was spent refurbishing the station. This included refurbishing the roof structure, restoration of glazed screens and new station buildings were built to mimic the original James Millar structures of the original station and the restoration of the Hielanman’s Umbrella.
Street Scenes:
The Plastic Surgery Department of the Royal InfirmaryThe Glasgow Royal Infirmary, which opened in 1933 but there had been a hospital here since 1794
Stirling
The Castle:
The castle from the graveyard of the Church of the Holy Rude…The Royal Palace was built for James V in the 1540’sThe Great Hall was built for James IV around 1503The Wallace Tower – opened in 1869 it overlooks the scene of Scotland’s victory at the Battle of Stirling Bridge in 1297
Church of the Holy Rude:
The Church of the Holy Rude dates from around the same time as the castle although there had been a church on this site since 1129…“Holy Rude” means “holy cross”…King James VI of Scotland became James I of England and authorised the translation of the bible into English see: www.holyrude.orgIntriguing memorial to John Sconce, dated 1729Memorial to Margaret Wilson who was executed in 1685 at the age of 18 for refusing to renounce her Protestant faith – she had no connection to Stirling, so no one’s quite sure why it’s here…
The City:
The hospital provided by John Cowane in 1639 in the grounds of the church…A memorial to Robbie BurnsA statue of Campbell Bannerman – Prime Minister from 1905-08 and the first to be given the title “Prime Minister” – became MP for Stirling in 1868…The Municipal Building dates from 1914The Carnegie Public Library dates from 1904A memorial to William Wallace – there’s a memorial to Robert the Bruce at the castle…The old jailHidden behind this glorious copper beach is the Youth HostelQuarrelling is taboo…The city walls were strengthened in 1547 in anticipation of attacks by the English…
Perth
St John’s ChurchThe Salutation claims to be Scotland’s oldest hotel and dates from 1699…The Museum and Art GalleryThe Fergusson Gallery housed in a former water tower features works by John Duncan Fergusson, the most famous artist of the Scottish Colourists. He spent most of his life split between Paris and London and was influenced by the French modern movements of the early twentieth century…The former Sandeman Library dates from 1898 but is now a pub – the building is in poor condition, as you can see…The River TayThe River Tay
Dundee
Museums and Galleries:
The Dundee Museum of Transport adopts the tried and tested method of not bothering with any signs directing you to it – it’s only about 2km from the city centre and easy to walk to but a couple of signs would be nice…This Jowett Bradford is the star of an admittedly small show…It still runs and the owner uses it every day, apparentlyThe Dundee V&A Museum opened in September 2018 and was designed by Kengo Kuma, a Japanese architect…It is very spacious inside – untroubled by such things as exhibits…The RRS Discovery – built in Dundee in 1901 – it took Scott and Shackleton to the Antarctic…The McManus Art Gallery & Museum was designed by George Gilbert Scott in 1867…The McManus Art Gallery – another glorious George Gilbert Scott buildingIt is an excellent museum and galleryThe Verdant Jute Mill opened in 1833 – https://www.dundeeheritagetrust.co.uk/The museum is a lot more interesting than you might suppose…They seem very proud of this fully operational 1801 Boulton & Paul beam engine – albeit that it’s 30 years older than the Verdant Mill…Women outnumbered men three to one in the mills, an imbalance in the labour market that gained Dundee the nickname of ‘she town’. ..The heat, dust, grease and oil fumes caused a condition known as ‘Mill fever’, which would lead to respiratory diseases like bronchitis…
The Waterfront:
HMS Unicorn – built in 1824 – one of the 6 oldest surviving ships in the world – www.frigateunicorn.orgA model of the Unicorn without the odd toupeeIt’s cramped in the lower decks…The Captain’s suiteUnicorn warding off dragons
The City:
The Dundee High SchoolThe old Post Office is a gem…The Howff – this cemetery is all that’s left of the old Grey Friars monastery that was destroyed in 1547…This fine Art Deco building is languishingI’m assuming this is a joke…The Dundee Law – what remains of an old volcanic sill with a war memorial on topSt Mary’s – closed to visitors currentlySt Paul’s Cathedral – closed to visitors currentlyCaird HallThe Queen’s Hotel, where I’m staying – it’s a glorious building and inside it’s like going back to the 1970’s…Another fine building in dreadful condition…Very nice ice cream…
Montrose
For some reason I believe that George Harry Brown left Montrose for Australia and his son, John Francis Brown, founded Brown Brothers Wines in Milawa, north east Victoria – so, as I was in the area it seemed appropriate to make a little pilgrimage…This statue is of Robert Peel but, other than being popular for reversing the Corn Laws, he has no connection with Montrose…A statue of Joseph Hume – born in Montrose in 1777, he became a radical MP known for introducing a number of social reformsThis rather bizarre statue is of James Graham, the first Marquis of Montrose – he was a Royalist and supporter of Charles I: it didn’t end well…The old public library
Aberdeen
Aberdeen Town House dates from 1870Aberdeen is known as the “granite city” – derived from the granite used in the buildings – they should really call it the “grey city”…Union StreetThe Salvation Army Citadel dates from 1896The Mercat Cross – featuring a unicorn – dates from 1686Marischal College was founded in 1593 and was Aberdeen’s second university – although it merged with Kings College (1495) in 1860. This building dates from the 1830’s and, since 2009, has been used as council offices…Provost Skene’s House dates from 1545 – currently closed for renovationSt Andrew’s CathedralGates of Privilege: Robert Gordon’s SchoolAberdeen Art GalleryHis Majesty’s TheatreThe Central LibraryA couple of churches in the city centre have been converted to restaurants…The old post office dates from 1905
Elgin
The Cathedral:
The Cathedral – begun in the 1200’s and destroyed during the reformation of 1560…It was known as the lantern of the north…They were accepting pre-booked tickets only…The first Muckle Cross was built around 1650 – it was then destroyed in 1792 and this incarnation dates from 1888…
The Town:
The church of St Giles and St Columba – closed except for services like all churches in Scotland currently…This building dates from 1634The Thunderton House dates from around 1650 and is currently being restoredThe real reason people come to Elgin: Gordon & McPhail. I had the pleasure of dealing with them in a former life: fascinating business and lovely people…
The Moray Motor Museum:
It’s not a very big collection but it does have some interesting cars…A Jensen 541R from 1959A Bristol 404 from 1954 and the darker green car is an AC Aceca from 1957An Aston Martin DB2 from 1952…A Messerschmitt KR200 from 1963 on the left and a BMW Isetta 300 from 1958 on the right…A Frazer Nash BMW 328 from 1931 in blue and a Jaguar SS 100 from 1937 in red…A Daimler Tourer from 1910A Speedwell from 1904There are several display cases full of model vehicles
Jedburgh
Jedburgh’s Augustinian abbey was founded in the 1100s. It suffered much damage in the 14th and 15th centuries before succumbing to the Reformation in 1560…
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