91. Staffordshire

This post features: Leek, Tamworth, Stoke on Trent, Stafford and Lichfield

Leek

Church of St Edward:

The Parish Church of St. Edward the Confessor is dedicated to Edward, King of England between 1042-1066. The original Norman church was burnt down in 1297, and re-built in the next century. Much of this fourteenth century building still remains. The church underwent restoration in the 17th century and again during the 19th century…
The church has wonderful stained glass windows, including a window designed by Edward Burne-Jones in pre-Raphaelite style…
St Luke’s Church

Nicholson Museum and Art Gallery:

The 17th century Greystones house hides the Nicholson Museum and Art Gallery…
The Nicholson Museum and Art Gallery was closed for refurbishment at the time of my visit – it is due to reopen in 2026 …
The mill dates from 1752 and is the only corn mill known to have been built by James Brindley.   James Brindley is more famous as the pioneer of the canal system in Great Britain…

The Market Place:

The Market Place
On the right is the Butter Market, built in 1897 to commemorate Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee
Inside what was the Butter Market – still an indoor market

The Town:

The memorial was built in 1925 by Sir Arthur Nicholson to commemorate the men of Leek and District who fell in the First World War. In particular his son, Lieutenant Basil Lee Nicholson, who was killed in action at Ypres in 1915. At 90ft (27.4m) high, the tower is one of the tallest war memorials in the country and with four clock faces serves as the town’s main clock…
Derby Street is semi-pedestrianised – with lots of market stalls as well it’s a bit chaotic in a typically muddled English way…
Looking up Derby Street to the Nicholson Memorial…
The Roebuck is a Titanic Brewery pub
The Cock Inn is a Joule’s Brewery pub – on this fine sunny day they had run out of their Green Monkey lager but I didn’t go thirsty, I had a pint of their Hedgerow Citrus Pilsner, which was nice albeit it tastes more like a Citra-dominated pale ale than a lager…
A former Silk Mill, in Market Street – now empty and disused…

Tamworth

Church of St Editha:

The rather magnificent St Editha’s, Tamworth – rebuilt in 1345 after a fire destroyed the previous church
St Editha is believed to have been a daughter of King Egbert of Wessex and became abbess of Polesworth Priory

The Castle:

The Normans built a stone castle in Tamworth to replace an old wooden one – this was added to and/or knocked about at various times between 1400 and 1700
A statue to Queen Aethelflena, Queen of Mercia and daughter of Alfred the Great, who defeated the Vikings at Tamworth in 931ad
Inside Tamworth Castle

Town Centre:

Market Street
The Town Hall built in 1701 with a statue of Sir Robert Peel – who was MP here from 1830 to 1850
The Castle Hotel, Tamworth dates from 1900
The River Tame
The River Tame
A picture of the bar of the Market Vaults pub in Market Street – a smashing steak & kidney pie for only £4.95 – couldn’t try any of the many interesting beers as I was driving

Stoke on Trent

Stoke on Trent, also known as the Potteries, is a curious place. The city is a federation of 6 towns: Burslem, Fenton, Hanley, Longton, Stoke on Trent and Tunstall. The federation as a county borough came into being on March 31st, 1910 – ten years after it was first proposed. It didn’t last long, however, as it became a city on 1st July, 1925 www.thepotteries.org. The city centre – such as it is – is in Hanley. It must be the UK’s least inspiring city despite its industrial heritage…

Stoke:

Stoke station is impressive from the outside but is a bit cheerless inside…
The North Stafford Hotel opposite the station is run by Britannia Hotels – in October 2019 it was rated the UK’s worst hotel chain for the 7th year running…
Stoke’s Civic Hall was built in 1911
Stoke Minster: St Peter as Vincula (St Peter in Chains) was consecrated in 1830 and created a Minster in 2005 – closed to visitors, though. There was a bell ringing practice last night – sounded glorious
Stoke on Trent itself is grim
I’m staying at the Potbank – which is part of the old Spode works redevelopment
Gates of Extinction

Hanley:

The Potteries Art Gallery and Museum with a statue of Arnold Bennett in the foreground
Hanley Town Hall
There are some nice buildings left in Hanley but not many
The Wetherspoon and Waterstones occupy a former butchers market built in 1837. The fabric of the building is in shocking condition but the interior is glorious

Stafford

The Collegiate Church of St Mary
The Collegiate Church of St Mary
The High House, dating from 1595, is home to the museum – Charles I stayed here in 1642
Originally built as a timber frame house in the 1650s, alterations in 1758 allowed an alehouse called the May Pole to open in part of the building. In the 1780s it became a coaching inn called the White Bear and over time this was shortened to the Bear. 
Dated 1610, this thatched building on Mill Street is a typical example of a seventeenth century Stafford cottage. It was known as Primrose Cottage and was only put to commercial use in the nineteenth century.
The 11th century castle was destroyed by the Parliamentarians during the Civil War
Looking down and towards Stafford

Lichfield

Lichfield Cathedral is the only medieval three-spired Cathedral in the UK, and the burial place of the great Anglo-Saxon missionary Bishop, St Chad. 
Lichfield Cathedral dates back to 656 when the Diocese of Mercia was formed. In 664, Saint Chad moved the seat of the diocese to Lichfield from Repton.   The city’s name may  mean “Field of the Dead” , relating to the slaughter of 1,000 Christians here by Roman emperor Diocletian
Dr Samuel Johnson was born in Lichfield

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