This trip was undertaken in March 2019 and features: Turin, Verona, Mantua, Villafranca di Verona, Padua, Venice, Vicenza, Bologna, Modena and Milan
Turin
My Jet2 flight from Manchester to Turin
Piazzas and Street Scenes:
TurinPiazza RealeThis building houses the Royal Armoury and the Royal LibraryPiazza Gran Madre Di DioTurinTurinTurinTurinTurinTurinTurinPalazzo Graneri Della RocciaTurinThe Piazza Vittorio Veneto – looking down towards the River PoLooking up Piazza Vittorio Veneto with the river behind me
The River Po:
Ponte Umberto with its grand statues at either end…The River Po – at 652km, it is the longest river in ItalyThe Regional Museum of the Mountain – whatever that means – best go and have a look tomorrow
Cars:
A Fiat 500 Giardiniera Estate car – made from 1957 to 1972The Turin Automobile Museum – couldn’t be easier to get to, said the friendly, helpful lady in the Tourist Information office opposite Porta Nuova. “Take the metro to Lingotto and then it’s two short streets.” – she marked it down on the map she gave me. Indeed, it is only a 5 or 10 minute walk from the metro stop but there are no signs – it took quite a while to get my bearings – still, once I got there it was worth it – for someone who likes cars, that is…An 1899 Panhard LevassorA 1903 De Dion BoutonA rather snazzy 1913 Delage AB-8A 1931 Cord L-29A 1934 Citroën 11ALancia Aprilia from 1948Left: a 1930 Fiat 500 Topolino and right a 1932 Fiat 507A 1955 Citroën DSA 1956 Fiat 600 Multipla – love this, though the colour scheme is a bit odd…A GAZ Pobeda from 1957A 1958 Fiat 1900 BA 1966 NSU RO-80This will make you weep: in 1965 Innocenti started making Minis under licence. BMC, as it then was, bought the company and gave the green light to this Bertone-designed replacement in 1969. This smart little hatchback was more practical and space efficient than the Mini and was a success on launch in 1974 – production ended in 1993. At no time did BMC (or British Leyland as it became) consider launching this neat little car into the UK – it has to be said that the Autobianchi A112, also designed by Marcelo Gandini of Bertone, is a more resolved design but hey…
The City of Ice Cream:
The best ice cream in Turin (il migliore)Runner up (secondo classificato) Third (medaglia di bronzo) – although voted “best ice cream in Turin” on Trip Advisor…
Churches:
Il Duomo, Turin – home of the Turin ShroudIl Duomo – apparently you can climb the bell tower but it was closed on my visit…Il DuomoIl DuomoIl DuomoAnd lo! It’s a miracle – the Turin Shroud is kept here – don’t be fooled by the hologram…Turin
Museums:
This is the Museum of CinemaThe Museum of CinemaPalazzo Madama – Museum of Ancient ArtTurin is a nice, easy city to wander around as it is based on a grid system – it is quite a difficult place to capture in photographs with its wide boulevards, huge squares and monuments hemmed in on all sides…The excellent Egyptian Museum in Turin. Note that museums shut at 2pm on Mondays – also note that visiting museums at half-term, when rammed with families is not recommended…Sarcophagus of Puia – also from the Middle Kingdom period c1800bcStela of the superintendent of the Meru chancellors – from the Middle Kingdom period (c2009-1959 bc)It would seem that the Italians plundered as much as the British…
Monuments:
TurinA statue of Fernandino Di Savoia (1822-1855)The Plaza SolfernoBeer time…
Trains:
The Porta Nuova Railway StationTravelling by train in a foreign country is exciting. Catching the 10.33 to Venice – but getting off at Verona…Premium Economy is pretty swish – free papers and refreshments includedWe were doing 296kph (184mph) but 254kph (158mph) is still impressive – I know it is standard across Europe but for us Brits it’s a bit space age…Snow-capped mountains
Verona
In The City:
This is the Verona Arena – a Roman amphitheatre built sometime in the first century ADA view of the amphitheatre from my hotel…VeronaVeronaVeronaVeronaVeronaVeronaA city without roof people is a city bereft of soul…
Romeo and Juliet:
“But soft, what light through yonder window breaks? It is the east and Juliet is the sun. That thou, her maid, art far more fair than she.” The Casa di Giulietta is a renovated 13th-century residence that belonged to the del Cappello family, who are believed to have inspired the fictional family of Juliet Capulet in Shakespeare’s play. The balcony was added to the building in the 20th century…
Churches:
The Basilica of Santa Anastasia is the largest church in Verona. Founded by the Dominicans, construction started around 1290 and was originally dedicated to St Peter, a Dominican from Verona and patron saint of the city. The basilica was built on the site of a church dedicated to St Anastasia, a fourth century martyr and retained the name…The Basilica of Santa Anastasia features three aisles supported by 12 Veronese marble pillars The Basilica of Santa AnastasiaThe Basilica of Santa AnastasiaThe Basilica of Santa AnastasiaThe Basilica of Santa AnastasiaThe Basilica of San Zeno is one of the most beautiful and best preserved examples of Romanesque architecture in the whole of Northern Italy. The bell tower dates from the 12th centuryThe Basilica of San ZenoThe Basilica of San ZenoThe Basilica of San ZenoThe Basilica of San ZenoChurch of Sant’ Eufemia – was rebuilt in 1140 on the site of an older church. The main layout we see today was completed in the 14th century. The Gothic bell-tower contains six bells in F rung with the Veronese bell-ringing art.Church of Sant’ EufemiaChurch of Sant’ EufemiaChurch of Sant’ EufemiaSaint Fermo Maggiore – curiously, two churches in one and dedicated to St Fermus and St Rusticus. There was a church on this site in the 5th or 6th century but the current church dates back to the 8th century. Between 1065 and 1143, the Benedictines completely restructured the complex and built two churches: the lower one to preserve the relics from the previous church, and the upper one for the daily celebrations. They also started the construction of the bell tower, which was completed in the 13th century. In 1261, the Franciscans took the place of the Benedictines and rebuilt the upper church. The work was completed around 1350. The church underwent major restoration between 1905-09.Saint Fermo – the lower churchSaint Fermo – the upper churchVerona – a city with heart and soulSt Matthew’s church is now a pizzeria
The River Adige:
The River AdigeThe River AdigeRiver AdigeThe River Adige, Verona
The Castelvecchio:
Castelvecchio – the castle was built by the Scala family in the mid-1300s and is now a museum…
Street Scenes:
VeronaVeronaVeronaVerona
Mantua (Mantova)
The Basilica Di Sant’Andrea:
The Basilica Di Sant’Andrea was built in 1472 on the site of an old 11th-century church and is the largest church in Mantua. In the crypt are kept two reliquaries with earth soaked in the blood of Christ…The Basilica Di Sant’Andrea – the dome looms eerily over the city The Basilica Di Sant’Andrea The Basilica Di Sant’Andrea The Basilica Di Sant’Andrea The Basilica Di Sant’Andrea – Mantua (Mantova)The Basilica Di Sant’Andrea – Mantua (Mantova)
The Ducal Palace:
The Ducal Palace of Mantua – the largest late-Mediaeval court in Europe, largest museum complex in Italy and a UNESCO World Heritage SiteThe Ducal Palace (or Gonzaga Palace) -from 1308 it was the official residence of the lords of Mantua, belonging at first to the Bonacolsi family, until 1328, when it became the residence of the Gonzaga family, who ruled the city until 1707… Entrance to the museum was free on the day of my visit
Other Sights:
MantuaMantuaMantua
The Church of St Francis
The church was founded by the Franciscan Order in 1304 but not consecrated until 1459, It was sacked in 1797, during the Napoleonic Wars, and turned into an arsenal in 1811 and remained in military use until WWII…Nice ice cream…A statue to Virgil: fortune favours the boldMantua is only 45 minutes by train from Verona. Here they have double-decker trains – again, common throughout Europe (and Australia) – but not in Britain.
Villafranca di Verona
Il Duomo:
Villafranca Di Verona – famous for the Scaligero Castle and the Duomo…The Cathedral of St Peter and St Paul – it isn’t known when it was built but it was first documented in 1292 and then rebuilt in 1340. Between 1782 and 1882 it was rebuilt again…From a distance it looks wonderful – the dome and the spires and then up close…
Scaliger Castle:
The Castle of Villafranca di Verona was built between 1199 and 1202 to defend the population of Villafranca against attacks from Mantua…As the sun is preventing decent pictures – have a look at the website: http://www.terredelcustoza.com/…/scaliger-castle…The castle was abandoned from around 1450 but, in 1890, the main tower of the castle was rebuilt and a clock added…In 1345, building of the Serraglio, a defensive wall, began, It is unique in Europe and was about thirteen miles long. It started from Borghetto and linked five castles: Borghetto, Valeggio, Gherla, Villafranca and Nogarole Rocca. Nowadays, only traces can be seen along the banks of the river Tione.
The Town:
Clearing up after the market – so the road is closed to through trafficCaffe Fantoni dates from 1820Stappo i Spillo – tap and spile – good to see craft beer in rural Italy…
Padua (Padova)
The Basilica of San Antonio:
The Basilica of San Antonio was built between 1232 and 1310. St Anthony is buried here and the church is a site of pilgrimage…The Basilica of San Antonio – simply stunning inside (photography forbidden) and quite glorious outside…
The Basilica of Santa Giustina:
The Basilica of Santa Giustina The Basilica of Santa GiustinaThe Basilica of Santa Giustina – astonishing and close to the equally amazing Basilica of Sant Antonio The Basilica of Santa Giustina – nowhere near as decorative and embellished as Sant Antonio but equally vast inside
Prato Della Valle:
Other Churches:
Santa Sophia – built between 1106-1127La Chiesa Degli Eremitani dedicated to St Philip and St James dating from 1276…Il Duomo, PaduaPadua
Gallileo’s House:
So: the build-up to Galileo’s houseAnd this is it: Galileo’s house…
Palazzo della Ragione:
The Palazzo della Ragione dates from 1218, is the original city courthouse and is one of the largest suspended courtrooms in Europe. Between 1306 and 1308, the 3 rooms in the upper floor were merged into one and a new roof was designed resembling the shape of an overturned ship’s hull…
The City:
One of the city’s 16th century gatesPaduaPaduaPaduaPaduaPaduaPaduaPaduaPaduaPaduaPaduaTop marks for making the gelato on-site but their crema was flavoured with lemon: sacrilegeDon’t believe it – what the Italians call “pedestrian zones” are anything but…
Venice
I set off from Venice’s Santa Lucia railway station to explore Venice. I had a map but it didn’t take me long to get lost but it’s a magical city to wander around. I got there reasonably early and just wandered. The photos are posted in sequence but there’s no logic to the sequence – merely aimless wandering. I should probably have been more diligent and taken notes but, hey – it was great just walking about and I found a lovely little café, with a friendly, chatty waitress, to have a couple of restorative espresso…
A trip to Venice by train from PaduaThe Basilica of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari“Well: if I were you, I wouldn’t start from here…”
San Marco:
The Basilica di San Marco (St Mark’s Basilica) is the cathedral church of Venice. The construction of the Basilica began in 828 to house Saint Mark’s relics which had been smuggled out of Alexandria. Although the current building is from the eleventh century, it has been renovated and modified throughout the centuries.The current Basilica is built in the shape of a Latin cross and has five domes. It became the city’s cathedral in 1807. It has over 4,000 square meters of mosaics, some from the thirteenth century, and 500 columns from the third century…
The Doge’s Palace:
A Gothic masterpiece, the Doge’s Palace is composed of layers of building elements and ornamentation, from its 14th and 15th century original foundations to the significant Renaissance and opulent Mannerist additions. The building is made up of three large blocks: the wing towards the St. Mark’s Basin is the oldest, rebuilt from 1340 onwards; the wing towards St. Mark’s Square was built in its present form from 1424 onwards and the canal-side wing, housing the Doge’s apartments and many government offices, dates from the Renaissance and was built between 1483 and 1565.
The Rialto Bridge is the oldest of the four bridges to cross the Grand Canal of Venice. It is also the most famous in Venice thanks to its peculiar history and design. For many years, the overpass was the most important financial centre in Venice.The present Ponte di Rialto was built in stone between 1588 and 1591 by Antonio da Ponte to substitute a wooden bridge which had collapsed in two occasions and had been partially burnt down in 1310.Santa Maria di Nazareth Church (again)I realise that the idea is not to whizz around Venice in two and a half hours and it would be easy to spend a couple of days here. But as an orienting trip it was ideal – it’s a spellbinding place. I was lucky with the weather and I got there reasonably early so it wasn’t too busy. Oh, and I found the best little café to get a couple of restorative espressos…
Vicenza
Another trip by train from Padua – Vicenza: made famous by the architect Andrea Palladio – from whom the term “Palladian” is derived…A statue of Andrea Palladio
The Museum:
The Palazzo Chiericati and now the Museum of VicenzaThe museum has a huge and bizarre collection of toy soldiers as well as some old model trains and, more conventionally, lots of Italian renaissance art
The Old Theatre:
The old theatreThe old theatreInside the old theatre is this stage set
The Piazza Dei Signori:
The Palladian Basilica – the building was originally constructed in the 15th century and known as the Palazzo della Ragione. In 1546 Andrea Palladio was chosen to reconstruct the building. Palladio named the building a basilica, after the Roman civil structures of that name. It was completed in 1614.The Palladian BasilicaThe Palladian BasilicaThe Palladian BasilicaThe Piazza dei Signori The Piazza dei Signori The Piazza dei Signori The Piazza dei Signori
Churches:
Il Duomo – closed on a Saturday? Oh well…The church of St Lorenzo – open to the faithful and heathen alike…St Lorenzo’s door…
Street Scenes:
VicenzaVicenzaVicenzaVicenzaBefore you bury Caesar: “Yond Cassius has a lean and hungry look, he thinks too much; such men are dangerous.” Old Julius might have had a point, you know. A statue of Garibaldi in Vicenza…
Bologna
Churches:
Bologna is home to the oldest university in the western world – founded in 1088 (https://www.unibo.it/…/our-history/the-numbers-of-history) – it is a fascinating and easy city to wander around…The Cathedral of St Peter, BolognaThe Cathedral of St Peter, BolognaThe church of St FilippoThe Basilica of St Bartholomew and St GaetanoThe Basilica of St Bartholomew and St GaetanoThe Basilica of St PetronioThe Basilica of St PetronioThe Basilica of St PetronioThe Basilica of St DominicThe Basilica of St DominicThe Basilica of St DominicBasilica of St Stephen
The City Centre:
BolognaBolognaBologna BolognaBolognaBolognaBolognaBolognaBolognaThe 13th century Porta San DonatoThe Museum of Mineralogy – one of 15 museums in the city
Street Scenes:
Spring blossom in BolognaThis must be the place to come for gelato – Cremaria Cavour – once the queue has gone, clearly…Tanimodi – great for a lunch on the go or a late night snack: sort of a thin dough base with your fillings of choice – much, much lighter than pizza – folded into a sort of pitta pocket – hot, though, as in oven-hut – find them on Via Ugo BassiThis pub is called: The English Empire – damn the Italians and their irony – it’s a great bar, though…Lots of shops selling hams, cheeses, fresh pasta…Still life with apparitionWhere Wodonga leads, the world follows…The must-have gadget for Bologna’s posties
Modena
The Ferrari Museum:
The Ferrari Museum in ModenaThe Ferrari Museum in ModenaThe Ferrari Museum in ModenaThe Ferrari Museum in ModenaThe Ferrari Museum in ModenaA 250GT Berlinetta Lusso from 1962The Ferrari Museum in ModenaThe Ferrari Museum in ModenaThe Ferrari Museum in Modena
Churches:
Temple of Giuseppe, Modena – an easy train journey from BolognaModenaThe Synagogue in ModenaChiesa San Giovanni BattistaThe Chiesa del Voto was built to give thanks to the Madonna for the end of the devastating Plague of 1630 and is currently undergoing restorationThe Basilica of ModenaThe Basilica of ModenaThe Basilica of ModenaThe Basilica of ModenaThe Basilica of Modena
City Centre:
The Basilica of ModenaModenaModenaModenaModenaModenaThe city museum – closed on Mondays – according to the lady sitting at the ticket desk…Clouds of Malevolence gather over Bologna…
Milan
The Cathedral:
Construction of Milan cathedral began in 1386 near the basilicas of Santa Maria Maggiore and Santa Tecla. It was decided that Candoglia marble would be used instead of the traditional Lombard brick… Between the seventeenth and eighteenth century the tiburium was completed with the great spire on top… The façade was completed (1807-1813) and further decorative work continued during this time – most of the spires were placed on the roof and several stained glass windows with enamel-painted glass were also completed…
Castello Sforzesco:
Castello SforzescoCastello SforzescoCastello SforzescoCastello SforzescoThere was a big student demonstration in the city about climate change – very noisy and there were thousands involved but it was peaceful…
Other Churches:
Basilica of Sant’ Ambrogio – dates from 379 – it doesn’t look great from the outside, not helped by all the construction work going on around it…Basilica of Sant’ Ambrogio The church of Santa Maria delle GrazieSanta Maria delle Grazie is home to Leonado Da Vinci’s “The Last Supper” – you have to book tickets in advance to see it, unsurprisingly…Milan’s grand central station…Milan’s grand central station…Does life get anymore mysterious? Once upon a time, Slalom Lager was brewed by Matthew Brown in Blackburn. It wasn’t a great beer and really should have been allowed to die an ignominious death in the great hangover of time and wasted Saturday nights – but – and it is here that you might start to seriously believe in the existence of aliens: it is still brewed in Italy (under licence from Heineken) and at 9%abv must surely be destroying more brain cells than Italy can afford to lose. But on the bright side: rather them than us…It’s out there somewhere: Jet2 LS936 to Manchester…Always good when you can see your bag being loaded: sweet that they don’t use containers, though. It was later explained to me that Boeing 737’s can’t take luggage containers…
