This post features: May 2023: Kraków, Tarnów, Katowice, Częstochowa, Łódź and Wrocław August 2018: Lublin, Zamość and Chełm Easter 2015: Warsaw May2014: Gdańsk
Lublin
Stansted to Lublin with Ryanair
Stare Miasto:
Lublin is in eastern Poland, about 100 miles from Warsaw, 77 miles from Brest, Belarus and 120 miles from Lviv, UkraineWandering around Lublin…In the old town (stare miasto)…Parts of the old town are still undergoing restoration
Churches:
The Minor Basilica and Dominican Church of St Stanislaus is tucked away in the corner of a square – originally built in the early 14th century, it was badly damaged by fire in 1575 and was remodelled in the 17th and 18th centuries…Inside it is simply astonishingCathedral of John the BaptistThis convent has an unusual symbol for a Catholic institution
Street Scenes:
The MuseumLublin would seem to be the ice cream capital of Poland and Bosko has the best ice cream (lody) according to Trip Advisor – sadly, it was rather dull Ukraine and Russia parked side by side in sweet harmonyThe bus station where the marshrutka go from – these are minibuses that link the city with towns and villages in the area – I used them to go to Zamość and ChełmLublin was known as the “Jewish Oxford” as it was a centre of Jewish scholarship…
The Lublin Village Open Air Museum:
A windmill in Lublin’s outdoor museum – a 5km walk from the old town but worth itThis Catholic church dates from 1686…This is a Greek Orthodox church from Uhrynów in Ukraine – it dates from 1759
Zamość
The Fortress:
Zamosc – the old town is a UNESCO World Heritage siteZamość – the old town is a UNESCO World Heritage siteZamość
Stare Miasto:
The market square in Zamość The market square in Zamość The market square in Zamość
Churches:
The Cathedral of St Thomas, ZamośćViews from the tower at St Thomas’Views from the tower at St Thomas’The Cathedral of St Francis of Assisi is undergoing renovation
Chełm
Chełm (pronounced roughly as “heh-wum”) – the name comes from the Slavonic for “hill” – famous for the Minor Basilica and other fine churches. This is the Church of Holy Apostles the Messengers – whoever they were…An old photo of the Church of the Holy ApostleThe interior is stunningThe interior is stunningNot sure what the name of this little church is – it is closed for renovationAn old seminary, dating from 1757, and now a museum of religious artefactsThe Minor Basilica of St Mary the VirginThe Minor Basilica of St Mary the VirginOne of the bellsThe Minor Basilica of St Mary the Virgin seen from the Bell TowerLooking down into town from the Basilica Chełm Chełm market place Chełm market place Chełm market place A Wartburg 353 (sold as the Wartburg Knight in the UK)The cinema
May 2023
Kraków
Kraków was the capital of Poland from 1038 until 1596, when Warsaw became the capital. During the thirteenth century, the city was twice destroyed by Mongol invasions and rebuilt. In 1291, Wenceslaus II waselected king having been king of Bohemia since 1278. The Lithuanian-Polish Jagiellon dynasty ruled the kingdom from 1368 to 1572. The union of Polish Queen Hedwig, and Jogaila, Lithuania’s Grand Duke, formed the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. This state was one of the greatest European powers of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries and spread from theBaltic Sea to the Caucasus, with Kraków as the political centre.
The old town is now ringed in a sort of horse shoe shape by Planty Park – essentially a green belt – and remnants of the city’s medieval walls.
Wawel Hill is a Jurassic limestone outcropping that formed about 150 million years ago and which, at nearly 228 meters above sea level, is a dominant feature in the Cracow landscape. Situated on the bank of the Vistula river and surrounded by its waters and marshes, the hill had provided a safe haven for people since the Paleolithic Period. Towards the end of the first millennium, Wawel began to be a center of political power and by the 9th century it was the principal fortified settlement of the Vistulan tribe. See: https://wawel.krakow.pl/en/the-history-of-the-royal-palaceWawel Cathedral holds a special place in the history of the Polish State as it was the church of Polish kings for four hundred years. See: https://www.katedra-wawelska.pl/en/historia-katedry/katedra-krolewska/
Stare Miasto:
The Stare Miasto (old town) is centered around the Rynek Glówny (market square) – the biggest in Poland.
The original Cloth Hall was built in the 13th century when Kraków received its city charter. It was destroyed by fire in 1555 and rebuilt in an Italian style. By the 19th century the hall had deteriorated and was renovated and is what we see today: http://www.krakow.travel/en/54-krakow-cloth-hallThe 14th century Wieza Ratuszowa (town hall tower) is 75m high and all that remains of the old town hall, which was demolished in 1817St Mary’s Basilica was consecrated in 1320St Florian’s Gate – one of seven city gates. See: http://krakow.travel/en/17748-krakow-brama-florianska
Churches:
St Mary’s Basilica https://mariacki.com/en/st-marys-basilica/history-of-the-basilica/The extended single-aisle presbytery under a stellar vault was built in late 14th century. Three medieval stained glass windows survive, the others are 19th centurySt Anne’sSt Anne’sSt Anne’sSt Peter and St PaulSt Peter and St PaulSt Peter and St PaulSt Andrew’s St Andrew’s – the gate is locked unless there’s a serviceSt Bernard’sSt Bernard’sSt Bernard’sSt Bernard’sBasilica Corpus ChristiBasilica Corpus ChristiBasilica Corpus ChristiSt Catherine of AlexandriaSt Catherine of AlexandriaSt Stanislaus and St MichaelSt Stanislaus and St MichaelThe Tempel SynagogueThe Tempel SynagogueSt Joseph’s, in the Podgórze district of Kraków, was built between 1905-09 and designed by Jan Sas-Zubrzycki.St Joseph’sSt Joseph’s
Street Scenes:
The old Kraków Główny – main station. The new station is incorporated in the Kraków Galleria, a big shopping centre about 50m to the left…The Sky Hotel was developed around a town house dating from 1895. It’s about 100m from the Kraków Galleria and a short walk to the old town – a great place to stay…The Juliusza Słowackiego TheatreThe VistulaThe Vistula – this bridge has little figures attached to the suspension wires
Cemeteries:
The Rakowicki CemeteryThe Rakowicki CemeteryThe Jewish CemeteryThe Jewish Cemetery
Lody
Nice ice cream: they didn’t have vanilla but they did have śmietanka (cream)Another good ice cream place – again, I had śmietanka as they didn’t have vanillaBrewed in Kraków – the brewery is about 200m from the Sky Hotel
Tarnów
Churches:
Cathedral of the Virgin Mary dates back to 1346 and became a cathedral in 1786 and became a Minor Basilica in 1972 – https://www.it.tarnow.pl/en/worth-seeing/tarnow-13/cathedral/#Cathedral of the Virgin MaryThe Cathedral of the Virgin Mary has some nice stained glass windowsThe Church of the Holy Family was built between 1904-06 and was designed by Jan Sas-Zubrzycki, who also designed the ornate St Joseph’s Church in KrakówThe Church of the Holy FamilyThe Church of the Holy Family
Town Hall and Museum:
Built at the turn of the 16th century in a Gothic style it was later altered to give it a more Renaissance look. What had been a fairly simple building gained a top floor and a tower. The Town Hall became a museum in 1931. Looking out over Tarnów from the town hall towerLooking out over Tarnów from the town hall tower
Market Square:
This museum was very good with several interactive exhibitsThis museum was actually closed although the doors were open and there was a cashier in the ticket booth. I think it was closed while getting a new exhibition ready…
Street Scenes:
The site of the old synagogueRestored to commemorate the former City HotelThe old tram car is now a little café
Katowice
Katowice – the capital of Silesia – was an industrial city, known for its coal mines and steel production. It isn’t the most attractive of cities, although it does have some nice turn of the (20th) century avenues. It was badly damaged during the war and during the Soviet era. It even suffered the ignominy of being called “Stalinogród” from 1953-56. It has been undergoing significant regeneration…
Churches:
Mariacka Street around the turn of the 20th century. The overall appearance of the street hasn’t changed other than it’s now pedestrianised and lined with bars and restaurants…St Mary’s, Katowice’s oldest church was built from Silesian dolomite, not the usual red brick, between 1862 and 1870 St Mary’s ChurchSt Mary’s ChurchThe Cathedral of Christ the King: construction began in 1927 but it wasn’t completed until 1955. Interference from the communist regime saw the intended height of the dome reduced by 38m – which is why it looks a bit odd and less imposing than intended…The Cathedral of Christ the King
Museums:
The History of Katowice Museum is in a tenement block dating from around 1910 and has rooms laid out and furnished as they would have been and on the top floor is an exhibition on Katowice’s timeline – it’s reasonably central but not easy to find as there aren’t any signs…The Silesian Museum is easier to spot as it’s big and the coal mine tower gives it away…It’s a bit odd, though. In the main hall there’s a big art gallery and in the basement an excellent series of exhibits covering the region’s timeline – but nothing to see in the old buildings or of the coal mine that was once there…
Street Scenes:
This building features on all the maps dotted around the city highlighting the various historical sites. It is described as “the modernist building”. It was built between 1932-7 but seems a bit ordinary to me…Mariacka Street is a great place to wander along with lots of bars and restaurants but there are other options in the side streets – like this nice, friendly craft beer bar…The old railway station is being restored (view from my hotel room)…
Częstochowa
Jasna Góra Monastery:
Częstochowa is famous for the Jasna Góra Monastery – this is the Holy Virgin Mary Avenue leading up from the town centre. The avenue was created in 1818 and goes from St Sigismund’s church in the old town up through the new town to the monastery. It is about 1.5km long… Jasna Góra has been a sanctuary since the 15th century – the main attraction being “The Miraculous Image of the Mother of God” – an icon that was taken to Constantinople in the 4th century by St Helena. Somehow, in the 9th or 10th century, the icon then found its way to Belz, Ukraine. In 1382 it was decided to move the icon to safety in Opole, Silesia but stopped here on its way and it has been here ever since… https://jasnagora.pl/en/about-sanctuary/miracolous-icon-of-our-lady/andhttps://osppe.us/our-history/Inside the Basilica of The Holy Cross and the Blessed Virgin Mary. which was consecrated in 1463Looking back into town
Churches:
St. James Church, on the pilgrim trail between Old Częstochowa and New Częstochowa, was built between 1870-1872 as an Orthodox church of Saints Cyril and Methodius. In 1914 it became a Catholic church. It was closed to visitors…St Sigismund’sThe Basilica of the Holy Family
Street Scenes:
The railway station and dilapidated fountain – both in need of restorationIntriguing mural on the right as you come out of the stationUnveiled in 2014, the “Tower of Babel” mural was created by Tomasz Sętowski and a team of graffiti artists called “Dreamers”. It features surreal imagery, based on biblical and mythological motifs…
Dating from 1872, the first weaving mill was put into operation here, with two hundred English mechanical looms driven by a steam engine. The factory grew every year, gaining new weaving mills, bleachery, finishing plant, spinning mill, its own gasworks and fire station. After World War II, the company was nationalised, given the trade name “Poltex”, creating the reputation of Łódź as a centre for textilesBy the 1990s the company was facing bankruptcy but found a saviour in Mieczysław Michalski, an economist and a man of vision and passion. He was the president of Poltex’s board and able to find partners ready to breathe new life into this unique post-industrial space. Work started in 2003 and, remarkably, re-opened in 2006 as a tourist, cultural and commercial centre…The Manufaktura site has over 300 shops, restaurants, museums, discos, bowling alley, laser paintball, climbing wall, billiard, dance school, cinema and a hotel… OFF Piotrkowska is a smaller scale redevelopment of old industrial buildings with bars and restaurants. As the name implies, it is just off PiotrkowskaAt restuarant Spółdzielnia, OFF Piotrkowska: the waitress recommended this beer from a small brewery near Gdansk. It was very nice but also very strong at 6.2%abv…At restaurant Spółdzielnia, OFF Piotrkowska again. This time I had a beer brewed by Warkot, in Łódź. It is was also very good but still strong at 5.6%abvFactory-residential complex on the River Jasień was built in the 19th century by Karol Scheibler, the richest industrialist of Łódź. It was a self-sufficient city inside a city modeled on English industrial settlements. It had factory buildings, including a huge castle-like cotton mill, warehouses, workers’ houses, school, fire station, two hospitals, gasworks, factory club, shops, houses of the owners, and a railway siding. All that was placed along straight cobbled streets and it was architecturally coherent. This old fire station is part of the Karol Scheibler complex More of the Karol Scheibler complexSome of the old industrial buildings are awaiting restoration…Some of the old industrial buildings are awaiting restoration
Wall Art:
A rather fancy trompe l’oeil (a French phrase meaning ‘deceives the eye’ used to describe paintings that create the illusion of a real object or scene)Łódź means boat or barge hence the mural being an homage to the cityA fine trompe l’oeil…
Churches:
The Church of the Holy Trinity is astonishing insideThe Church of the Holy TrinityThe Church of the Holy Trinity The Church of the Holy Trinity St John the EvangelistSt John the Evangelist – it was closed, so I took this photo through the window in the door…Church of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross – it was shutThe sweet little Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is currently closed for restorationThe Catholic Cathedral Basilica of St. Stanislaus Kostka was built between 1901-12The Basilica was badly damaged during a fire in 1971 after which it was restoredAs it was a Sunday, the churches were busy with services throughout the day…St. Matthew’s Lutheran church in Łódź serves the Evangelical Church of the Augsburg Confession in Poland (I have no idea what that means)
Piotrkowska Street:
Piotrkowska Street is semi-pedestrianised and is about 4.2km long…They actually had vanilla (as well as śmietanka) – very good it was, too…
More Street Scenes:
Freedom Square is being transformedThe Church of the Holy Trinity in Freedom Square – which is undergoing transformationThe enormous Poznanski Palace – now the Museum of ŁódźThe Museum of ŁódźThe Reinhold Richter villa is part of the University of TechnologyThe old green wooden house is part of an open air museumThe Herbst Palace Museum was built in 1876 for the daughter of the most prominent entrepreneur in Łódź, Karol Scheibler, Matylda and her husband Edward Herbst who became the director of the Scheibler’s textile factory after his father-in-law’s death. The project was designed by the city architect, Hilary Majewski, who designed it as a neo-renaissance mansion. The palace was renovated between 2011–13 but is currently closed for further restoration.Scheibler PalaceA reflection of St John the Evangelist
Wrocław
Wrocław (pronounced as in vrots-wahf) is the capital of Silesia and the 4th biggest city in Poland. In the dying months of WWII, the Germans turned Wrocław into a fortress and it withstood a long siege by the Russians during which most of the city was destroyed. The subsequent restoration of the city is astonishing.
Rynek:
The market square (rynek) is the third biggest in Poland (after Kraków and Warsaw). It was pedestrianised in the 1990’sConstruction of the town hall began in 1299, although the tower wasn’t added until the 16th centuryThe Salt Square, just off the Rynek
Ostrów Tumski:
The bridge over the Oder to Ostrów Tumski (cathedral island) The Cathedral of John the Baptist on Ostrów Tumski (cathedral island)The Cathedral of John the Baptist on Ostrów Tumski (cathedral island)Church of the Holy Cross and St Bartholomew
Other Churches:
The Minor Basilica of St ElizabethA view of the city from the viewing platform in St Elizabeth’s tower – a climb of about 300 stepsAnother view of the city from the viewing platform in St Catherine’s tower The Church of St Mary MagdaleneThe Jesuit Church of the Holy Name of JesusThe interior of the Jesuit Church of the Holy Name of Jesus is astonishing
University Museum:
The old University of Wrocław building is now a museumA view of the city from the viewing platform of the Mathematical Tower at the University MuseumA view over the Oder from the viewing platform at the University MuseumAnother view over the Oder from the viewing platform at the University Museum
Hala Targowa:
The market hall was designed in 1905/1906 and built in 1908/1909. At that time, it was a very modern and original reinforced concrete structure, based on a bold concept of parabolic reinforced concrete arches…
Street Scenes:
The main station was built between 1855-57The Anonymous Pedestrian installation dates from 2005Sąd Okręgowy we Wrocławiu – the district courtBiblioteka Uniwersytecka – the old University LibraryThese figures are in the shambles where butchers and butcheries were during the middle ages…There are several hundred (stats vary) of these little bronze figures dotted around the city. They started appearing in 2001 and the idea stems from graffiti that started appearing in 1982, as part of the orange alternative, featuring dwarfs as a way of protesting https://www.wroclawguide.com/en/wroclaw-dwarfs/
Warsaw
When I first came to Warsaw, back in 1991, there was a “dollar shop” in the Marriott – where Poles that had access to dollars could buy luxury goods like Nescafé, Coca Cola, Marlboro cigarettes and so on – a world away now…
At Heathrow for my flight to Warsaw for Easter. Easter is not a good time to visit Poland – everything is there, of course, just not open…The mermaid (syrena) is the symbol of the city
Palace of Culture:
Stalin’s Wedding Cake – officially the Palace of Culture and Science. There are seven of these things in Moscow…It was opened in 1955 on the initiative of Joseph Stalin as a “gift of the Soviet people for the Poles”. It was considered to be a symbol of socialist power and the pride of People’s Poland – it was where conventions of the Polish United Workers’ Party took place and it has hosted numerous concerts, exhibitions, fairs and shows. Currently, the building is home to theatres, a cinema, museums and the main tourist information office. There is an observation deck on the 30th floor of the building but, like most things, it was closed for Easter…
Stare Miasto:
Churches:
Street Scenes:
Nicolaus Copernicus (1473–1543) was a mathematician and astronomer who proposed that the sun was stationary in the centre of the universe and the earth revolved around it. He created the concept of a universe in which the distances of the planets from the sun bore a direct relationship to the size of their orbits. At the time Copernicus’s idea was controversial; nevertheless, it was the start of a change in the way the world was viewed, and Copernicus came to be seen as the initiator of the Scientific Revolution.Museum of the Warsaw Uprising – closed early today for Easter – stupidly, I didn’t check…This grim memorial stands on the site of the former Gestapo HQ…A market in Praga – closing for the day – this area of Warsaw is due to be renovated…A street in the run-down area of PragaMural extolling the virtues of communism – one of the faces is of StalinWarsaw has grown some new tower blocks since I was last here – this area is referred to by the locals as “Manhattan”…A view from the 10th floor of the Westin Hotel, where I was stayingOur city tour bus, with Adventure Warsaw – they also have a fleet of Nysa minibuses that they use for city tours – https://adventurewarsaw.pl/en/A Nysa 522 – the Nysa was produced in the Polish town of Nysa from 1958 to 1994…Curious mural – the artist seems to think that Warsaw is being invaded…How cruel: the sign on the door promises “good beer- good people” – but it is closed for Easter. Easter is not a good time to visit Poland as many things close…Herring Warsaw style with a rye vodka
Powązki Cemetery:
Flaga Polski
Gdańsk
Waterfront:
Gdańsk is built up around the Motława, which runs into the Martwa Wisła, which then branches off the Vistula as it enters the Gulf of Gdańsk. Not sure if that’ll help in a pub quiz…
No attempt has been made to style the Hilton Hotel so that it blends in
Stare Miasto:
Churches:
The Basilica of St. Mary of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin is the biggest Gothic brick building in the world. Construction began in 1343 and finally completed in 1502. Badly damaged in 1945, reconstruction and restoration is still going… Inside St Mary’sSt Bridget’s Church dates back to the 14th century, when, in a small chapel the remains of Bridged of Swedenlay for several days. This event marked the beginning of the adoration of St. Bridged and it later became first Bridgettine Convent. It was badly damaged during WW2 and restoration didn’t begin until the 1970s…St Catherine’s is the oldest church in Gdańsk. The current church was built between 1227-39, replacing a wooden church that dated from 1185. The church was badly damaged during WW2 and has since been restored…Inside St Catherine’s
Street Scenes:
The indoor market with stalls selling mostly clothes & household things – the fruit, veg & flower market is outside…The outdoor fruit & veg marketInteresting murals above this shop…A close up of the interesting reliefs – a ship, a train & what could be Neptune – curiously the shop owner had no idea what they were and – if possible – even less interest…Ice cream 2 zł a scoop – very nice it was, too – popular place despite being tucked awayAn FSO Syrena (mermaid) – it was launched in 1957 and stayed in production until 1983The Syrena 104 was in production from 1966-72My swish hotelThe Devil appears to be sponsoring a local government initiative on creating work for idle hands…
Future trips
Poznań, Szczecin, Toruń plus I failed to put together checklists of things to see for my trips to Warsaw and Gdańsk – so the photos are rubbish and in need of replacement…
Another great blog Barnaby. I briefly visited Wroclaw on one of the charity rallies and loved it – some real contrast between old and new and the people were great. TB.
Another great blog Barnaby. I briefly visited Wroclaw on one of the charity rallies and loved it – some real contrast between old and new and the people were great. TB.