This post features: Exeter, Plymouth, Barnstaple, Exmouth, Axminster, Ottery St Mary, Torquay, Paignton, Okehampton, Crediton, Tiverton, Cullompton, Newton Abbot, Teignmouth, Totnes and Dartmouth
Exeter
The Cathedral:
Exeter Cathedral was begun in 1114 in a Norman style but rebuilt between 1250 and 1350 in a Decorated Gothic style…The wooden huts are presumably for a Christmas marketExeter CathedralExeter CathedralExeter CathedralExeter CathedralExeter CathedralThe tomb of Dorothea de Johannis – sweetly resting on a skull (1614)…
Churches:
St Mary’s Steps was built around 1150 and rebuilt in the 15th century and was probably originally known as St Mary MinorSt Olave’s Church dates from 1053 and was dedicated to St Olaf of NorwaySt Mary Arches dates from the Norman era and retains many of its Norman features, but has been renovated and altered over the centuries…St Petrock’s Church, named after a 6th century Welsh abbot, mostly dating from the 15th and 16th centuries but there is evidence of a church on this site in the 12th century… St Stephen’s ChurchSt Stephen’s Church was first mentioned in the 1086 Domesday book, although the crypt is probably of Saxon origin… St Martin’s – one of the oldest churches in Exeter, consecrated by Bishop Leofric in 1065. As Bishop Leofric came from Burgundy, the church was dedicated to St Martin of Tours. The the church was refurbished between 1420 and 1455…
Old Exeter:
ExeterLovely old doorTucker Hall dates from 1471The St Catherine’s Alms House date from the early 1500’s
City Streets:
The Burnet Patch bridge dates from 1814 and is named after the mayor at the timeFore Street, ExeterThis old Quaker Meeting House is now a Wetherspoon pub…At the Ship Inn, Exeter
Riverside:
The River ExeThe River ExeThe River Exe
Plymouth
Panoramas:
The city centreView from the lighthouseView of the harbour from the lighthouseView of the harbour from the museum
Harbourside:
Plymouth HoePlymouthView from Plymouth LighthouseThe war memorials at Plymouth Hoe with a statue of Sir Francis DrakeThe beautiful poppy display at Plymouth Hoe…The beautiful poppy display at Plymouth Hoe…The beautiful poppy display at Plymouth Hoe…The beautiful poppy display at Plymouth Hoe…Plymouth harbourThe Mayflower MuseumPlymouth harbourPlymouth harbourThe Mayflower set sail from here – bizarrely the pilgrims met a Native American called Samoset who spoke some English and helped them to settle in… – https://www.heritage-history.com/index.php?c=resources&s=char-dir&f=samosetA bit of Plymouth history…A bit of Plymouth history…A bit of Plymouth history
Street Scenes:
The Plymouth Gin distilleryPlymouth’s ugly court housePlymouth’s GuildhallInteresting frieze at Plymouth Guildhall Interesting frieze at Plymouth Guildhall And this memorial to Nancy Astor who was the first female MP to take her seat at Westminster – interestingly she was born in the USA Built between 1956-59 as an office for what was the National Provincial Bank (subsequently RBS)…St Andrew’s Church was badly damaged during the war but sympathetically rebuilt – prior to 1634 it was the only church in PlymouthThe Charles Church was completed in 1658 and was the second church in Plymouth and was regarded as the finest post-reformation gothic church in the land – sadly damaged during a bombing raid in March 1941PlymouthPlymouthThis fine be Art Deco building is about to become a churchThis Victorian gothic gem was the Great Western Hotel and the Palace TheatreOh to have the money to restore it…Erected in 1862 – this is a memorial to William Derry who was mayor of PlymouthThese stars are embedded in the pavement outside the Theatre RoyalA model boat race underway…
Barnstaple
Low tide on the River Taw, BarnstapleBridge Chambers – a Grade II listed, late 19th century office block on the banks of the River TawBarnstaple MuseumA memorial to Charles Sweet Willshire – mayor from 1837-69Very good fish & chips here at Scoff’sBarnstapleThe Unionist Church, BarnstapleSt Anne’s Chapel, Barnstaple dates from the 14th centurySt Peter and St Mary Magdalene, Barnstaple also dates from the 14th century with 16th and 17th century additions – the spire is a bit twisted17th century Alms Houses,This sweet little former school was built in 1659…
Exmouth
The Homeland Tour of October 2014 came to an end here in Exmouth. It started off in Ely, then Wisbech, Spalding, Gainsborough, Whitby, Jedburgh, Carlisle, Milnthorpe, Shrewsbury, Ludlow and Leominster, before arriving here… Beside the seaside: the Premier Inn being built is, according to the signs, “bespoke”. This was taken in October 2014 and, having now seen photos of the finished hotel, I was quite surprised…This photo is taken from the Premier Inn website. The design is quite pleasing – it has a vaguely Art Deco feel to it… The sea & sky are grey – apparently we have the tail end of two hurricanes on the way…
Axminster
The Minster church of St Mary dates from the Norman period but most of what we see today dates from the 13th and 15th centuriesIt is astonishingly dull and untidy inside – quite bizarreThomas Whitty was born in Axminster in 1713. On a visit to London, in 1754, he saw some carpets that had been imported from Turkey. He was impressed by their vibrant colours and size and wondered how they were made. He started making carpets here in 1755… See: https://axminsterheritage.org/local-history/whitty/The heritage centre houses a museumThey have a little garden featuring plants used in the making of dyes. I’ve never seen woad before…Lively little market on today
Ottery St Mary
Ottery:
St Mary
St Mary’s church owes its existence to Bishop John de Grandison who rebuilt the church in 1342 and modelled on Exeter CathedralThe weathercock is over 500 years old and believed to be the oldest in EuropeEffigy of Lady Beatrix de Grandison, who died in 1374Effigy of Otho de Grandison, older brother of John, who died in 1359A model of the church
The Town:
A most excellent wine merchant…
Torquay
Torre Abbey, Torquay, dates from 1196 – see the post Abbeys & Monasteries for more picturesThe grand town hall dates from 1911The role of government clearly explainedThe old town hall now empty and abandoned. A friendly Polish surveyor told me what it was and its history…Castle Chambers – built in 1850 as a hospitalA former bank – hopefully undergoing renovationNice Art Deco building: Electric House was built in 1935…This Methodist Unionist church is hideous – it was built in 1976
Paignton
I wasn’t expecting this. The tower and walls are all that’s left of the fortifications of the palace of the Bishops of Exeter (1050-1549)…You can’t go into the walled grounds as there’s a building there…St John’s Church: the current building dates from around 1250 and replaced an 11th century Norman church…At first glance it doesn’t look very interesting…The Palace TheatreA sweet little greengrocer cum café run by a friendly Cypriot couple – very nice, fresh, home made food – a real find
Okehampton
Daily services to Okehampton from Exeter resumed in November 2021 after a gap of almost 50 yearsThere’s a sweet little museum and a little shop where you can buy drinks & snacks, amongst other things…To infinity and beyond! How long until the service is extended to Meldon Viaduct and beyond…St James’ chapel – the medieval church was destroyed by fire in 1842 and replaced with this little chapel in 1844 – although the tower largely survived and is 13th centuryOkehampton Castle – once home to the Earls of Devon and the largest castle in Devon https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/…/okehampton-castle/In the 14th century it was the sumptuous residence of Hugh Courtenay, Earl of DevonSadly, the last Courtenay fell foul of Henry VIII and after 1539 the castle fell into decline and ruin…
Crediton
The Collegiate Church of the Holy Cross is astonishing with an intriguing history to match…The church was created a cathedral in 909 – probably because St Boniface was born here – but reverted to being a Collegiate Church when Exeter Cathedral was inauguratedCollegiate churches were dissolved between 1545-9, during the dissolution. The good folk of Crediton saved their church by buying it back from Henry VIII for £200. A collegiate church is a church where the daily office of worship is maintained by a college of canons; a non-monastic, or “secular” community of clergy, organised as a self-governing corporate body, which may be presided over by a dean or provost. In its governance and religious observance a collegiate church is similar to a cathedral, although a collegiate church is not the seat of a bishop, and has no diocesan responsibilities. Collegiate churches were often supported by lands held by the church, or by tithe income from appropriated benefices. The memorial on the left is of John & Elizabeth Tuckfield and dates from 1630. John is looking adoringly at Elizabeth from the left and right… The effigy on the right is of William Pervam, who died in 1603…The statue of St Boniface, who was born in Crediton around 675 and is credited with bringing Christianity to Germany. In 732 he was appointed Archbishop of Mainz. However, he was killed by a mob in Frisia in 754 and his body returned to the abbey in Fulda. It would seem that there are 339 British saints (out of a total of around 10,000 saints) See: http://www.synaxarion.org.uk/Navpage/MainList.htmlI’m going to have to look up old Redvers – not only is the Wetherspoon named after him, there’s a frieze dedicated to him in the church and a statue of him in Exeter…
Tiverton
I didn’t choose a good day to go to Tiverton – Tivvy to the locals – as many of the things I wanted to see were closed. The easiest way to get to Tiverton from Exeter is by bus as the train stops at Tiverton Parkway – a mere 9 miles from the town…
St George & St Paul’s was built in 1714 using Ham stone (a Jurassic period limestone quarried at Ham Hill, in Somerset). It was designed by John James, a pupil of Sir Christopher Wren. The church was closed to visitors despite a meeting taking place in the dismal annex…Gotham House was rebuilt after the “great fire of 1731” and is regarded as one of the finest Georgian buildings in Devon…The town hall is rather jolly. It was designed by Henry Lloyd, who also designed Exeter St David’s railway station, and opened in 1864…Tiverton Memorial Hall and Library opened in 1920…Tiverton Museum – closed on Sunday, Monday and Tuesday…St Peter’s Church is currently undergoing major renovation and so is closed to visitors. Interestingly, this Grade I listed whereas St George and St Paul’s is only Grade II…The first stone church was consecrated in 1073. The tower dates from between 1412-29. The church also incorporates the Greenway Chapel, built in 1517. By the beginning of the 19th century, the church was in very poor condition and underwent major restoration between 1853-6…Wasn’t supposed to go in but hey – so just a quick peekThe 12th century Tiverton Castle was home to the de Redvers family, Earls of Devon and was built on land given to them by Henry I. By the end of the 13th century the castle was passed to Henry de Courtenay, who had been created Earl of Devon by Edward III…Needless to say that the castle was closed…The town leat was built in the 1240’s to provide fresh drinking water for the good folk of TivertonThese almshouses and chapel date from the 1520’sIn 1643, John Lock was hanged outside the White Horse by the Kings Dragoons. The dragoons had come under attack by an angry mob and poor John was the only one caught…The River Exe
Cullompton (Cully)
St Andrew’s Church dates from the 1430’s and was built in the Perpendicular style…The colourful rood screenThe Jacobean gallery was erected in 1637The Lane’s aisle was added in 1526-9 and features a fine fan-vault ceilingThis Golgotha – part of the original rood screen – is unique as it is believed to be the only surviving medieval one in Europe. The name Golgotha is derived from the carvings of skulls, rocks and crossbones that were incorporated in depictions of the crucifixion scene at Golgotha. It is not known how this one escaped destruction during the reformation…This memorial window is by Edward Burne-JonesThis merchant’s house dates from 1602The Walronds also dates from 1602The White Hart – a former coaching innThere are three things about this photo that are odd. The first is how on earth the estate agency was able to desecrate what must have been a fine Georgian building, while the second thing is why the sign for the church is pointing in the wrong direction. The third reason is why I bothered taking this photo in the first place…
Newton Abbot
St Leonard’s Clocktower dates from 1220The Passmore Edwards library and technical schoolThe Golden Lion dates from 1623. It was originally called the Oxford Arms before becoming the Golden Lion in 1722Originally built as the Corn Exchange in 1871 it was converted into the Alexandra Theatre in 1900. In 1927 a balcony was installed and it became a full-time cinema
Teignmouth
The beach and promenadeKeats House: in December 1817, the two younger brothers of the poet John Keats, George and Tom, came to stay in Teignmouth. It was not to be a lengthy visit nor was it a successful one as Tom was already seriously affected by TB. The brothers rented this house in Northumberland Place and John Keats joined them in March 1818, staying until May. Tom eventually died in December and John contracted TB the following year, dying in Rome in 1821 at the age of 26…A plaque commemorating the building of a new quay in the harbourNow W.H. Smith, 3 Regent Street was built as a library in 1815 by local newspaper publisher, Edward Croydon. Contemporary journals were available here and it was also where the arrivals list of visitors to the town was kept.The beach and railway line at Dawlish
Totnes
The Castle:
Thought to have been built by Juhel, a commander in William the Conqueror’s army, it was originally an earthwork and timber construction but in the early 13th century, the shell keep was built to crown the mound and was later rebuilt and this is what is seen today. Circular in shape, it is one of the best preserved of the three such keeps in Devon
St Mary’s Church:
St Mary’s is a Grade I-listed building of considerable historical interest, its carved stone screen being the most imposing architectural feature. Completed in 1450, it is at least the second church on this site, its predecessor being dedicated in 1259. The Priory attached to the church was dissolved in the 16th century and was a cell of a Benedictine Abbey in Angers, France. There is no longer any trace of the priory which stood to the northeast of St Mary’s and which was a cell of the Benedictine Priory at Angers in France – founded by Judhael, who built the original castle here…Of particular interest are the 15th century stone screen; the Kempe stained glass window; the restored oak wagon roof; the fine brass candelabrum in the nave; the Blackhall monument and the memorial plaque to Walter Venning (1781-1821), Russian prison reformer. In 1867 work began on the restoration and reordering of the church under the architect Sir George Scott.
Historic Totnes:
The Guildhall was built in 1553 on the ruins of the medieval priory, founded in 1088. It has been the heart of the town’s administrative, legal and ceremonial life for centuries, serving as court, prison and meeting place. The Guildhall has been the home of the Town Council for over 450 years…Totnes Museum is set in a restored, Grade 1 listed Elizabethan merchant’s house built in the 16th century. Behind the Museum is a lovely garden, reminiscent of herb gardens of the Elizabethan period,..According to legend the Brutus Stone’s origins stretch back to ancient Troy. After accidentally killing his father, Brutus set off to Greece with his army of followers, where he defeated the king Pendrasu. The king gave Brutus his daughter to marry, and 324 well-stocked ships, at least one of which ended up on the River Dart. Following the advice of the oracle Diana, who suggested the Trojans should travel to an island in the Western Seas that was possessed by Giants, Brutus set sail for Great Britain – at the time called Albion. It was on the Brutus stone that he made his proclamation after landing on Britain’s shores, undeterred by the giants and attracted to Totnes by its location and fish-filled rivers. Not only was Totnes named by Brutus, but it’s said he named Britain after himself – conveniently ignoring the Britons who actually lived here. The story also ignores the fact that there was no Greek king called Pendrasu – but that’s myths and legends for you…Even without the work underway closing Fore Street, you’d easily miss this famous landmark…The Gothic House is an early 19th century, Grade II listed building
Street Scenes:
Looking up Fore Street towards the EastgatePretty much all that remains of the old town walls that date to the late 14th century, with extensive repairs in 1639. The West Gate was demolished around 1810 leaving this, the East Gate, which was probably altered and re-fronted around 1835 in Gothic style. In 1850 Lord Seymour purchased the Gate House and opened it as a Mechanic’s Institute and Reading Room. It was rebuilt following a devastating fire in 1990…Cistern Street (“the narrows”) leads into the High StreetNot designed for traffic…The Bull Inn used to be a Starkey, Knight and Ford pub. Knight started brewing in Bridgwater in 1840 and Starkey began brewing in Taunton in 1845 and the two merged in 1887. In 1895 they took over Ford’s of Tiverton before succumbing to Whitbread. I stayed here for 2 nights – it’s not often a place exceeds expectations but the Bull Inn was fabulous…There’s nice Glastonbury – Hebden Bridge vibe to TotnesNice, friendly bar with several of their own beers plus guest beers…The River Dart
