This post features Cairo and Luxor from a trip in January 2017
Cairo
Good morning from Cairo (sabah alkhyr!) – a view over the Nile from my room at the Kempinski Nile HotelLess hayzee more fantayzeeThe two main beers here in Cairo – the brewery, Al Ahram Beverages, is owned by Heineken – so the beers are good, if unremarkableThe two main beers here in Cairo – the brewery, Al Ahram Beverages, is owned by Heineken – so the beers are good, if unremarkable
The Mosque of Ibn Tulun:
Completed in the year 879 CE, the Mosque of Ibn Tulun is believed to be the oldest mosque in Cairo that is still in its original form. It is famed for its beautiful architecture and great views over the city
The Coptic Church of St Mary:
Saint Mary the Virgin – known as the Hanging Church – one of the oldest Coptic churches in Cairo
St George’s Greek Orthodox Church:
St George at St George’s Greek Orthodox Church in Cairo
Mosque- Madrassa of Sultan Hassan:
Mosque- Madrassa of Sultan Hassan – dating from the mid-14th century Mosque- Madrassa of Sultan Hassan Mosque- Madrassa of Sultan Hassan Mosque- Madrassa of Sultan Hassan Mosque- Madrassa of Sultan Hassan Mosque- Madrassa of Sultan Hassan Mosque- Madrassa of Sultan Hassan Tomb of the Shah of Iran at the Mosque- Madrassa of Sultan Hassan
The Mohammed Ali Mosque:
The Mohammed Ali MosqueThe wonderful Mohammed Ali Mosque – designed to look like the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed) in Istanbul…The clock tower was donated by the French – and stopped working after 24-days
The Mamluk Mosque:
The only remaining Mamluk Mosque in Cairo – Mohammed Ali brought a swift end to the Mamluk dynastyThe Mamluk dynasty ruled Egypt and Syria from 1250 to 1517. The name is derived from an Arabic word for slave…
Museum of Islamic Art:
The Museum of Islamic Art re-opened 2-days ago after closing in January 2014 as a result of bomb damage…The Museum of Islamic Art re-opened 2-days ago after closing in January 2014 as a result of bomb damage…
The Egyptian Museum, Tahrir Square:
The excellent Egypt Museum, Tahrir Square is the oldest archaeological museum in the Middle East, and houses the largest collection of Pharaonic antiquities in the world. The museum also displays collections from the Predynastic Period to the Greco-Roman Era…The Cairo Tower in the distance
Wandering Around:
Wandering around the Khan El Kalili souq…
Garbage City:
The cave church of St Simeon the Tanner in Manshyet Nader – otherwise known as Garbage City – away from the city centre. The drive to the church and adjacent monastery is interesting….Sculptures in the rocks depicting the flight of Mary, Joseph & Jesus to Egypt – where they sought sanctuary from Herod…Various biblical stories are portrayed here…Various biblical stories are portrayed here…A view over Garbage City from outside St SimeonInteresting mural in Cairo’s Garbage City (Manshyet Nader) – by French-Tunisian artist El-Seed
Sakkara
The magnificent step-pyramid of Zoser at Sakkara – designed by Imhotep and built in 2650BC – sadly now in danger of collapse..The Step Pyramid of the Pharaoh Zoser, designed by Imhotep. Built in 2650BC this is the world’s oldest stone monument but is in danger of imminent collapse – hence the scaffolding…
Memphis
A sphinx at the museum in MemphisA statue of Ramses 2nd at rest in Memphis…My guide, Rasha, wondering whether to adopt the puppy…
Giza
Close-up of the Great Pyramid of Khufu – which you can go into and go up to a chamber. Getting up and down inside the pyramid is an experience and not one recommended for sufferers of claustrophobia…
Flight to Luxor:
Frenetic activity at Cairo International Airport – here for a flight to LuxorIt’s still Christmas on the 23rd January…On my felucca to Luxor and – well – here’s a novelty: the first row is numbered 20 – followed by 21,22 etc. There was me thinking I’d be at the back of the plane in 22C…
Luxor
The Sofitel Winter PalaceBeer time at the oasis – I’ve sent my camel to bed (at the Sofitel Winter Palace, Luxor)Sofitel provides a changing room for statues here at the Winter Palace. Statues are only meant to use the pool at night when it is off-limits to guests – but it seems this statue is not on-message…
The Temple of Hatshepsut:
The Temple of Hatshepsut – the only woman to rule as a Pharaoh – in order to do this she first married her brother and when he died she married his son (son by a concubine in case you’re wondering). This poor lad was then imprisoned until Hatshepsut died, whereupon he became Pharaoh & set about destroying any and all images and references to Hatshepsut. Families, eh?The temple has been extensively restoredOne of the few remaining images of Hatshepsut – she is dressed as a Pharaoh but the hieroglyphs below are in the feminine gender, which gives it away. Myths and legends: while Hatshepsut is probably the most famous female Pharaoh – there were others. The first is thought to have been Merneith (c3000BC); Sobeknofru is thought to have ruled from 1799 to 1795BC; Tawosret ruled from 1188 to 1186BC and of course there was Cleopatra. Some believe that Nefertiti ruled after Akhenaten’s death in 1336BC – possibly under the name of Smenkhkare. Anyone interested in Ancient Egypt might find: www.thebanmappingproject.com interestingThe Colossi of Memnon – originally representing Amenhotep 3rd – each cut from a single block of stone weighing around 1,000 tonnes. Damaged during an earthquake in 27BC the colossi were said to whistle in the wind – left to disintegrate and now form the entrance to a site still being excavated
On The Nile:
Nahla, my guide, leading the way for a couple of hours sailing on the Nile in a felucca – a traditional sailing boat that has changed little since pharaonic times…Nile Angel – that’s usThe Sofitel Winter Palace from the River NileA felucca in sailSunset on another wonderful day in EgyptThese things cruise between Luxor and Aswan.Engine maintenance clearly not a priority…
Valley of the Kings:
Sunrise over the Valley of the KingsBalloon flight in the Valley of the Kings: firing up our balloonOthers are way ahead of usAnd we’re off…Sunrise over the NileThat’s us…A balloon has landed on the road – all ok, we were told later!The Temple of Ramses 3rd (Medinet of Habu) for about 10 minutes it seemed that’s where we would land…
The Temples of Karnak:
The site of the Temples of Karnak covers about 2sq.km.; contains 10 temples and was never really finished as each successive Pharaoh added their own temple – most of what can be seen dates from around 1500 – 1000BC – the level of detail is astonishing and where colours remain quite remarkable…There are 134 columnsQueen Hatshepsut’s obelisk is taller and of a more advanced design than her father’s
Luxor Temple:
An avenue of ram-headed sphinxes – the statues that is, not the tourists…The Luxor Temple – largely built by Amenhotep 3rd and Ramses 2nd, from around 1390-1213BC – is linked to Karnak by a 3km sphinx-lined avenue. This shows the remaining part of the sphinx-lined avenue linking Karnak and Luxor. The sphinxes are regular, lion-heads and if you walk behind them you’ll see they are male lions…Nahla either leading the way or running away – I can’t remember now…A statue of Ramses 2nd in remarkably good conditionTutankhamen and his wife…The figure on the left represents Alexander the Great – one of the few images of him – he fancied himself a Pharaoh – so a lot of what survives of ancient Egypt is thanks to him, surprisingly.,.This old Mosque was built on top of the Temple – it was built at street level – so you can see how much sand and soil accumulated over the millennia
Tombs of the Nobles:
Site of The Tombs of the Nobles – I visited the tombs of Ramrose; Userhet and Khaemhet – all fascinating – the colours and the hieroglyphs are amazing – all dating from around 1400BCFrieze showing workers collecting grapes and making wine – clearly an advanced civilisation
The Ramesseum Temple:
The Ramesseum Temple of Ramses 2nd – oh how the mighty are fallen. Percy Bysshe Shelley wrote Ozymandias in honour of Ramses 2nd (thanks to Nahla for that little gem – I didn’t know that) 19th century vandal..,Nahla posing by 4 statues of Ramses 2nd – Ramses didn’t want anyone left in any doubt as to whose Temple it wasNahla leading the way – fearing I’d get lost again – or maybe hoping I’d get lost again…Remains of the grain stores – these were built from mud bricks – so to have survived this long (around 1300BC) is incredible
Habu Temple:
The Medinet of Habu (as Lonely Planet refers to it) or Habu Temple as everyone else calls it – either way it is a temple to Ramses 3rd with additions by Hatshepsut and Tuthmosis 3rd and the second largest temple after Karnak. Oh – and it is simply astonishingEntrance to the fortified temple is through the Syrian Gates – the design inspired by a Syrian fortressHere Ramses 3rd can be seen indulging in his favourite sport: smitingThe symmetry and scale plus the size of the hieroglyphs – it is all just so impressiveUnfortunately there are hundreds of pigeons – unchecked they will do more damage than tourists Vibrant colours – that the inks (or dyes) have lasted this long (around 3,300 years) is incredibleThis is a bit gruesome: scenes showing the collection of hands removed from dead soldiers – or live prisoners – even worse is the collection of men’s unmentionables if there were no hands to collect…
Temple of Hathor at Dendara:
The entrance gate to the Temple of Hathor complex at DendaraThe Temple of HathorAmazing colours – you might be able to identify some of the signs of the zodiacThere are 24 columns representing the hours in a day…This is an image of the goddess Nut – goddess of the sky – here folded somewhat bizarrely into a square…In the cryptLooking over at the Coptic Church that was built after the Romans leftCleopatra (left) and her son Caesarian – Cleopatra 7th married Julius Caesar and then Mark Anthony – she was the last PharaohThe god Bes, protector of households – usually depicted as a dwarf
Valley of the Queens:
The Valley of The Queens and the Tomb of Nefetari. There are around 85 tombs of queens and children uncovered here so far…The tomb of Nefertari, favourite wife of Ramses 2nd, has been restored to most of its former glory – quite magnificentCleopatra 5th at Deir el-MedinaAnubisHorusIsisHathorAmon Ra (sometimes just “Ra”)The day of judgement: are you pure and is your heart lighter than a feather? Better hope so…
Homeward Bound:
All is calm and peaceful at Luxor International Airport: note complete absence of aircraft…I stayed overnight at the Meridien, Cairo Airport. Egypt were playing Morocco in the Africa Cup of Nations quarter-final. Victory would see Egypt go into the semi-finals. Come on the Pharaohs! Gate E3 – our boarding gate – note plane nowhere near. In fairness, they did eventually tow the plane to the airbridge…Down there is Liechtenstein – you probably recognise it…
The British Museum:
I went to Cairo to see a replica of the Rosetta Stone – and so now I’ve come to the British Museum, in London, to see the originalMore importantly: why hasn’t the original been returned to the Egyptian Museum in Cairo?At the British MuseumAt the British MuseumAt the British Museum
