This post features: Tirana, Elbasan, Ohrid (Macedonia), Korça, Përmet, Gjirokaster, Labova, Antigone, Libohova, Sarandë, Mesopotam, Siri I Kaltër and Berat
I booked a trip to Albania, in September 2013, with Regent Travel. The flights out were straightforward with Austrian Airlines behaving themselves – but then I had plenty of time in Vienna for my connection. The flights back with Lufthansa were also fine.
I was met in Tirana by the hugely enthusiastic Gentian – who had spent 6 years living in Bedford, of all places – and we then drove into Tirana & had a tour of the city. The hotel Vila Alba was nice & friendly – quiet, too, for such a central location. Breakfast on the 6th floor terrace in bright sunshine was an absolute treat.
The visit to Ohrid was really interesting: I saw 7 old Zastavas – I mean the really old ones based on the Fiat 600 – in addition to all the usual Zastavas & other old cars. Macedonia seems to be a haven for old vehicles. Yes: I know I didn’t go to see old cars. That was a bonus…
Korçë seemed really interesting & it would have been nice to have had some free time in Korçë to wander around the city – the itinerary had us arriving at 16.30 but with so much to pack in during the day it is hard to see how that could have been achieved – and as it was we saw the old & new cathedrals & the icon museum the next morning…
Gjirokaster is just a gem of a place & I appreciated having 2 nights in one town – the stop in Sarandë was quite fun & reminded me of my visit to Yalta last year and, of course, Berat is fabulous.
The above completely ignores all the fantastic scenery, the castles & churches – the excellent food & good beer – and generally getting a feel for a country I knew nothing about. A good example of this is that Edi Rama was being inaugurated the weekend I arrived – I was oblivious to the June elections so had no idea that there was a new prime minister – the OSCE report on the election makes interesting reading…
The hotels throughout were great; the itinerary worked well; the local guides were good and Past & Present were very good & efficient – overall a great holiday.
If anyone needs persuading that Albania is great place for a holiday – well, a country that has such friendly people; good food & beer (wines were ok, too); good hotels; great scenery; endless history (if a bit confusing at times) & monuments – plus the “singing trees” in Tirana & Berat (maybe other cities, too) – how could you not go?
At Vienna Airport on my way to Tirana
Tirana
The Et’hem Bay mosqueThe mosaic above the National Historical Museum portraying history from the Illyrians to the Second World War partisansThe fancy new Orthodox Cathedral – inside it is quite simple with white walls & minimal but effective iconographySkanderbeg – Albania’s national heroMother Albania looks down over TiranaYou get a grand view of the city from up here in the Martyr’s CemeteryBreakfast on the little 6th floor terrace of my hotelThe Tanner’s Bridge
Elbasan
City walls ElbasanDowntown ElbasanAt the border with Macedonia
Ohrid – Macedonia
Welcome to Ohrid (pronounced “ok-rid”)You can see 2 of these old Zastavas – based on the Fiat 600 – there were 3 in this little car park The church of St Clement – one of only 365 churches in Ohrid. We also visited the 11th century St Sophia that was built on the ruins of a 5th century church – but I deleted that picture (being a complete half-wit)The Church of St JohnRoman amphitheatreA view of Ohrid from the lakeSt John from the boat – for lunch I had a fish called Belvica – apparently this species is endemic to Lake Ohrid…Are these sheep eating stones?
Korçë
Looking over KorçëThe church of St Naum – not a saint I’ve ever heard ofA monument to the soldiers of the First World War – Korçë was under French protection from 1916-19The new cathedral in KorçëThe old cathedral – cruelly re-designed by Hoxha’s (pronounced “hodja”) regime & turned into a museumAround 6,500 icons are stored here with around 250 on displayMural on the Erseka museum wall depicting heroes from Albania’s historyAlbania’s first school – opened in 1867 while the country was still part of the Ottoman Empire
Përmet
Beautiful setting for this church in PërmetLooking over PërmetThe walk back downGeneral scenery
Gjirokaster
Gjirokaster – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – famous for its fine Ottoman housesThe centre of the old townA view over Gjirokaster
Labova
Sweet little church in Labova – the foundations date to around 550 ad with main structure being 13th century – two claims to fame: the only Baroque church with Orthodox elements & it used to have a relic believed to be part of the cross of Jesus – sadly stolen about 10 years ago – damn that Iscariot!Interior shots of Santa Maria’s
Antigone
Up in the hills at Antigone
Libohova
The 530 year old Plane Tree of Libohova – much admired by Lord Byron, apparentlyLess than spectacular Plane trees in LibohovaA Kastrati filling station
Sarandë
View over Sarandë and the Ionian Sea from Lekursi CastleLooking out over CorfuView over Sarandë from my hotelConsidering you rarely get out of 3rd gear here, I think it is stretching things to imply you can “just fly” with Taçi dieselA better view of Corfu
Mesopotam
Byzantine church in MesopotamStrange that these figures have survived
Siri I Kaltër
The “Blue Eye” natural spring at Siri I KaltërBeautiful clear water – lovely setting
Berat
The town of 1,000 windows – old Ottoman quarter in BeratMy hotel in the Mangalemi quarter of Berat
Back In Tirana
The fierce, raging torrent that is the River LanëIn the same way that the crows fly home to roost in the trees in Chisinau – here, thousands of sparrows fly home to the trees in the centre of Tirana to roost – amazing to hear these singing trees
Beers of Albania:
Korça claims to be Albania’s first beer, having been brewed in Korçë since 1928Stela is a light tasting lager at 4.2%abv and brewed in TiranaPeja – from Kosovo – RKS on their number plates in case you wonderedOnly 4.1%abv but with a nice flavour
At The Airport:
Tirana International Airport – intriguing collection of MIG jets around the corner in a disused area of the airport
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